Interview with Haruka Miyake, the third generation
I spoke with Haruka Miyake about the reasons and thoughts behind establishing the cheese workshop.
A major turning point: "JA Zennoh Dairy Farming Dream Contest" during high school
Can you tell us what inspired you to want to have a cheese workshop?
Miyake
Since my parents were dairy farmers, cows and dairy work have been very familiar to me since I was little.
That said, I didn't strongly desire to take over my parents' business. However, my thoughts changed when I entered agricultural high school.
At one point, my homeroom teacher suggested, "Why don't you try entering an essay contest?" and I applied with a light heart.
I wrote about my work in dairy farming and what I wanted to do in the future, and to my surprise, I received the grand prize. I was truly astonished to receive an award.
As a prize, I was allowed to train at a farm in Kagawa Prefecture, and that experience became a major turning point.
Cheese making at the unforgettable training site
What kind of experiences did you have there?
Miyake
It might have been a crossroads in my life!
I loved eating cheese, so I was sent to a farm that had a cheese workshop for my training.
There, I got to experience making mozzarella cheese. I was so impressed that cheese could be made by adding just a little extra step to the milk.
I couldn't forget the joy of making cheese and the deliciousness of it.
I developed a dream of wanting to make cheese using my family's milk.
To learn more about dairy farming, I went to university in Hokkaido. After graduating, I trained for a year at a farm in Obihiro.
It was a family-run farm with a cheese workshop.
Here, I was thoroughly taught the basics of cheese making.
Unexpected problems that stood in the way of establishing the workshop
You mentioned that you opened the workshop three years after returning home. Can you tell us about the challenges you faced and any memorable episodes?
Miyake
After returning from Hokkaido, I began to move towards establishing the cheese workshop, but I couldn't make progress as I had hoped.
This was because the planned construction site for the workshop was designated as a agricultural promotion area. There were regulations that prohibited its use for purposes other than agriculture...
There were restrictions that prevented not only the store but also the construction of a processed food factory on that land.
I repeatedly inquired with Kurashiki City and consulted with senior dairy farmers about what to do. After many applications and revisions, I finally received permission for construction from Kurashiki City.
It took a year to get the permission. Since I was also applying for subsidies, the preparations were quite challenging.
This also took about a year. Then, from the construction meetings to completion, it took another year, so it took three years to open.
There must have been times when you felt like giving up.
Miyake
There were many things that didn't go well, and there were many times I thought I wanted to quit!
I lost 10 kg due to stress. During those times, the support of the people around me was really important.
I truly believe that I couldn't have established the cheese workshop on my own. I think I was able to start the store thanks to the cooperation and support of many people.
I felt once again the importance of human connections.
Pursuing deliciousness: the path of a cheese artisan that continues
Can you tell us more about dairy farming and cheese making?
Miyake
Actually, there are commonalities between dairy farming and cheese making. Both involve working with "living beings."
In dairy farming, the cows are the subjects, while in cheese making, it's the lactic acid bacteria. Observation skills are crucial here.
My parents have always emphasized this, and they are very careful about managing the health of the cows to prevent them from getting sick. They pay attention to the cows' condition, the fullness of their udders, and the milk yield during milking.
Since care is a daily task, they notice even the slightest discomfort.
On the other hand, the key in cheese making is lactic acid bacteria.
Lactic acid bacteria are alive, so their activity changes depending on the weather and temperature.
Even a single degree change in temperature can affect the acidity or creaminess.
Even when doing the same process, there are days when I feel, "Today's cheese is really delicious." It's interesting, isn't it?
I carefully observe the state of the cheese. I continuously adjust to find the best combinations and "update the method of making."
What do you find interesting about cheese making?
Miyake
The dedication and values of dairy farmers and cheese artisans differ from person to person.
The way cheese is kneaded, the fermentation time, and the combinations of lactic acid bacteria used also vary.
There are no correct answers, and no final goal. If you want to pursue it, the path continues indefinitely.
While that can be challenging, I feel a depth in cheese making and continue to pursue it.
Can you tell us about your popular and recommended products?
Miyake
The most popular product among customers is Fromage Blanc.
Its texture is closer to yogurt than cheese.
Since the method involves just adding lactic acid bacteria, it allows you to appreciate the flavor of the milk even more.
While it is still not very familiar in Japan, in France, it is commonly used for baby food.
It can be spread on bread or topped with jam. If you mix it with grated garlic, it can also be used as a dip.
Since it has no strong flavor, I think it is easy for those who are not familiar with cheese to enjoy.
Surprisingly pairs well with Japanese cuisine! Milky sweet mozzarella cheese
Miyake
My recommended product is mozzarella cheese.
When people think of mozzarella cheese, they might imagine "Caprese" with tomatoes and olive oil.
However... it surprisingly pairs well with "Japanese cuisine." I highly recommend trying it with wasabi soy sauce.
Please slice the mozzarella cheese like sashimi.
The sharpness of the wasabi soy sauce enhances the flavor of the milk.
It can also be used in miso soup, hot pot, or kimchi dishes. The possibilities for pairing are wide, so I would be happy if you could enjoy it with various dishes.
I want to connect customers with dairy farmers and cows through cheese
What thoughts do you have regarding your business?
Miyake
First and foremost, I want many people to know about the existence of dairy farmers.
Currently, there are six dairy farms in Kurashiki, with five located in Tamashima. Due to the harshness of dairy work and the issue of successors, I feel a sense of crisis that this number will decrease.
Since I often do face-to-face sales at events, I can directly hand products to customers. During those times, I often have conversations with them.
Now in the third year since opening, I am happy to say that customers have started to say things like
- "I know there are farms in Tamashima."
- "The cheese was delicious."
I feel that recognition is gradually spreading.
When customers pick up dairy products or eat them, I would be very happy if they could remember the dairy farmers and cows even just a little.
Another reason I started cheese making: I want to support the dairy industry
Miyake
Being a dairy farmer is a rewarding job, but it also has very tough aspects.
It's a job with no days off for 365 days, rising feed and material costs, and stagnant transaction prices. In such circumstances, I thought that if there were products that could create "value" on my own,
having a separate pillar from raw milk sales would help us overcome unstable situations.
With two pillars, the business can be more stable financially. In fact, many industries faced crossroads during the COVID-19 pandemic.
The dairy industry was no exception, facing very tough situations such as distribution chaos and rising feed costs.
My parents' dairy farm also faced a tough situation, but thanks to the cheese workshop, we were able to overcome it.
I am happy to be able to support my parents, who take care of the cows every day to provide "delicious milk."
Please tell us about the gold award received at the 14th ALL JAPAN Natural Cheese Contest.
Miyake
This is a contest held every two years to determine Japan's best cheese.
Many cheese artisans aim for awards at this competition, and I am one of them.
I submitted fromage blanc, mozzarella, and smoked scamorza to the contest.
The one that made it to the final judging was the fresh cheese, fromage blanc. Thankfully, it won the "Gold Award."
In fact, this was my second time entering the contest.
I never expected to receive an award, so I wasn't even at the venue in Tokyo; I was making mozzarella cheese in my workshop.
When the phone rang in the evening, I wondered what it was about, and when I answered, it was from the office staff.
They said, "You have advanced to the final judging, and the gold award is confirmed."
I couldn't believe something like that could happen!
After that, I was so restless and couldn't focus on making cheese.
Winning the Gold Award on My Second Attempt: Overflowing with Joy and Gratitude
Please tell us how you felt when you learned you had won the award.
Miyake
I was very happy. At the same time, various emotions overflowed.
There is no right answer in cheese making. The taste that one finds "delicious" varies from person to person.
I make cheese with the desire to deliver delicious cheese to my customers, but I don't know if they will find it tasty.
Sometimes I am plagued by anxiety, wondering if this is really okay.
Winning the award gave me confidence.
I felt that "what I have been doing until now was not wrong."
I also felt that my parents' dairy farming was recognized.
Fromage blanc is made very simply. You just add lactic acid bacteria to milk, and no salt is added. The flavor of the milk comes through more directly.
I felt that the quality of the milk from the cows raised by my parents was conveyed, and I was very happy.
Please tell us about your future prospects and what you would like to try.
Miyake
Recently, I have been focusing on product development.
After repeated trials, I have completed a soft serve ice cream.
It is being delivered to Kurashiki Fruit Village as "Miyake Farm's Soft Serve Ice Cream", and I would be happy if you could try it.
A new yogurt is also almost ready.
The yogurt is scheduled to be delivered to Okayama Coop and local direct sales markets, as well as to participate in events.
Additionally, I hope to someday open a shop in the Bikan Historical Area of Kurashiki.
Currently, the soft serve is made only with milk, but eventually, I want to create a soft serve ice cream with cheese.
I can't forget the cheese soft serve I had in Hokkaido.
Adding cheese gives it richness, and more than anything, the sweetness of the milk and the slight acidity of the cheese complement each other. The "sweet and salty" combination is addictive.
I want to convey the work of dairy farmers and the cows through delicious dairy products.
Conclusion
Miyake-san's deep love and pride for dairy farming remain unwavering even in the face of the harsh circumstances surrounding it.
On the contrary, it serves as a source for opening new paths.
I want to connect dairy farmers and consumers through cheese.
Miyake-san says that by connecting with each other, the work of dairy farming will continue into the future.
In my home, milk, cheese, and yogurt are always ready in the refrigerator for the children's snacks.
And soft serve ice cream is a special treat enjoyed when we are out.
Until now, I had been eating it casually, but since the day of the interview, conversations among my family have increased.
- "This is cow's milk, right?"
- "Who do you think takes care of the cows?"
- "We should thank the cows and the dairy farmers!"
When you think about the people and animals behind the products and food, the joy of eating and the gratitude for it become even more profound.
I want to incorporate cheese into our daily lives to enrich our meals, snacks, and relaxation time.
Data on Kurashiki Cheese Workshop Halparu
| Name | Kurashiki Cheese Workshop Halparu |
|---|---|
| Address | 5423-11 Tō, Tamashima, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture |
| Contact | 080-1907-5901 |
| Parking | Available |
| Payment Methods |
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| Reservation Availability | Reservations are required, and orders can be made by phone, fax, or email. Products can be picked up at the cheese workshop or shipped. Online sales are also available. Phone: 080-1907-5901 (SMS is also acceptable) Fax: 086-522-6510 Email: info@kurashiki-cheese.com |
| Website | Kurashiki Cheese Workshop Halparu |
