Interview with the owner chef of Lyon, Shimizu Shiro
Lyon offers beautiful plating, a nostalgic atmosphere, and exquisite cuisine.
It is a long-established restaurant that has been operating in Mizushima for many years.
I spoke with the owner chef of Lyon, Shimizu Shiro, about the background of the restaurant's opening, its commitments, features, and what he would like to try in the future.
Entering the world of Western cuisine by chance, but before I knew it, I had been in this field for 50 years!
What is the background of your opening?
Shimizu
After graduating from school, I worked in the world of Western cuisine for a long time.
I was working as a chef in a restaurant, but gradually I started to want to have my own place.
So, I decided to become independent and opened my restaurant.
When you are a chef, you naturally want to have your own restaurant.
Did you aim to be a chef since you were a child?
Shimizu
No, I never thought about being a chef at all.
When I was thinking about what job to do after graduating from school, I suddenly thought that the world of cooking seemed interesting.
With such a light reason, I got a job at a restaurant in Osaka.
That restaurant was quite large, hosting banquets and providing various experiences.
Once I actually stepped into the world of Western cuisine, I became fascinated by the fun of cooking, especially the depth of Western cuisine.
So, I immersed myself in Western cuisine as a chef, and before I knew it, it had been over 50 years (laughs).
My decision to become independent was also driven by the desire to research my own cooking at my own pace.
When did you become independent?
Shimizu
I became independent when I was 31 years old, on July 1, 1980.
After working for about 5 to 6 years at a large restaurant, I worked at several privately owned restaurants in Osaka.
After working at a large restaurant, I wanted to experience a smaller place as well.
Then, at 31, I returned to my hometown of Mizushima and opened Lyon.
The land where Lyon stands was my family's farmland.
Moreover, shortly before my independence, a shopping mall was built right next to it (now closed).
I think this was lucky.
By the way, what is the origin of the restaurant's name?
Shimizu
The name of the restaurant comes from the city of Lyon in France. My wife happened to see it in a magazine.
Then my wife said, "How about Lyon?" and we adopted that as the restaurant's name.
By the way, I have never been to Lyon (laughs).
Celebrating 40 years since opening Lyon. Regulars visiting for three generations
What are the features of Lyon?
Shimizu
I think about 90% of our customers are regulars. There aren't many restaurants with such a high ratio of regulars.
Moreover, about 10% of the remaining customers often come in after being introduced by regulars.
Thanks to everyone, Lyon was able to celebrate its 40th anniversary in July 2020 (at the time of the interview).
I feel that we are loved by the local community, and I am glad I became independent.
Now, there are customers who say, "I was brought here by my parents when I was little," and now they bring their own children.
Some customers even come with their parents, children, and grandchildren.
Additionally, we have customers from not only Mizushima but also the central area of Kurashiki, Tamashima, and Kojima.
What kind of customers are common?
Shimizu
During weekday lunch hours, there are many women. I would say nearly 80% are women.
Many customers enjoy meals together, such as elderly women dining together or middle-aged women gathering as "mama friends."
There are male customers as well, but in Mizushima, which has many companies, a lot of them come for business meals with clients or partners.
Some companies have even passed down the tradition of using Lyon for business meals from the previous manager to the successor.
That makes me feel a sense of responsibility.
Additionally, there are customers who have moved away from Mizushima and return after several years, reminiscing about the past.
It is very appreciated that they come back even after being far away.
Also, during dinner time, there are many elderly couples.
They enjoy course meals for special occasions.
Elderly people in Mizushima have a strong network, and many come to Lyon after being introduced by others.
On weekends and holidays, it is also common for families to come together.
What are the popular menu items?
Shimizu
Actually, that is the most difficult question (laughs).
As I mentioned earlier, we have many regular customers.
Each regular customer has their own favorite menu item.
Our regulars tend to order the same set menu rather than trying different dishes each time.
We do change our menu, but since each menu has its fans, it is difficult to remove items from the menu.
I think this is something to be happy about.
Lyon's commitment is to homemade sauces, starting with demi-glace sauce
What are your commitments as a chef?
Shimizu
It’s the sauce!
At Lyon, we are particularly particular about our sauces.
Our pride is the demi-glace sauce.
We take about two months to make our demi-glace sauce!
I didn't know it took that long to make demi-glace sauce...
Shimizu
Of course, it varies by restaurant and chef. Some people make it in a week to ten days.
To make demi-glace sauce, you continuously simmer water with flour, beef sinew and scraps, and vegetables like onions, carrots, and celery.
Once it becomes liquid, you strain it and repeat the same process.
Since it takes two months to make, it requires a lot of time.
That means it also incurs labor, material, and utility costs.
However, the flavor becomes concentrated and delicious, so we are committed to taking two months to make it.
In addition to demi-glace sauce, we also focus on tomato sauce and béchamel sauce (white sauce).
Therefore, Lyon's cuisine can be said to utilize three types of homemade sauces: demi-glace, tomato, and béchamel.
By the way, the dressing used on salads is also homemade.
Do you have any other commitments?
Shimizu
Another commitment is plating.
I think every day about how to make it look delicious and beautiful.
I try various things, and it changes from day to day.
It’s a daily trial and error process.
I have been a chef for many years, but plating is deep and difficult.
That’s why it’s interesting.
Even after 50 years, I still don't get bored. I haven't yet created something that satisfies me
What are your aspirations for the future or things you would like to try?
Shimizu
I definitely want to create my own satisfying "ultimate sauce."
Having entered the world of Western cuisine for 50 years,
I research and make sauces every day, but I still haven't created the best one.
I feel this is the deep aspect of Western cuisine.
That’s why I was drawn to Western cuisine.
Even after 50 years, I still don't get bored (laughs).
I want to continue my research and aim to create the ultimate sauce.
Another goal is to continue the restaurant for another 10 years.
In 2020, we celebrated our 40th anniversary.
In another 10 years, it will be our 50th anniversary.
If I can continue for half a century, I think it would be an amazing achievement for myself.
Lyon, a traditional "town restaurant" loved by the community
Even after working in the world of Western cuisine for 50 years, Shimizu says he is still not at a completed stage.
His daily dedication to researching cuisine is like that of a seeker.
Lyon has been a "nostalgic town restaurant" loved by the Mizushima area for a long time.
Please visit Lyon and enjoy dishes that utilize Shimizu's pride, such as the homemade demi-glace sauce, in the atmosphere of a traditional restaurant.
Data on Lyon
| Name | Lyon |
|---|---|
| Address | 2-6-13 Kanda, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture |
| Contact | 086-445-1513 |
| Parking | Available |
| Business Hours | 11:30 AM - 2:30 PM, 5:30 PM - 8:00 PM |
| Regular Holidays | Tuesday Friday afternoons |
| Payment Methods |
|
| Reservation Availability | Yes Accepted by phone |
| Seating | 22 seats total ・Counter: 4 seats ・4-person tables: 2 tables ・2-person tables: 5 tables |
| Smoking | Completely non-smoking |
| Toilet | Japanese-style toilet |
| Childcare | ・Strollers allowed ・Children's utensils available ・No children's chairs |
| Barrier-free | ・Wheelchair accessible (there is a step at the entrance) ・Toilet is not wheelchair accessible |
