Interview with Hiroshi Ohno, Representative of Ichiterasu
At Men-sake Isshoan (Men-sake Isshoan) Tenmaya Kurashiki Store, you can enjoy stylish ramen filled with the rich flavor of old chickens.
We interviewed Hiroshi Ohno, representative of Ichiterasu Co., Ltd..
Experiencing local food cultures while traveling around Japan
How did Isshoan come to be established?
Ohno (no honorific)
I originally worked at the Okayama City branch of Ippudo. Ippudo is a nationwide chain originating from Fukuoka City, specializing in tonkotsu ramen.
I started working in my early twenties, and around the age of thirty, I left the company once to embark on a journey around Japan on a motorcycle.
While working at Ippudo, there was a regular customer who came to Okayama on a solo assignment from Fukuoka.
That person said, "I'm so happy to be able to eat my local taste, Hakata ramen, even at my assignment location. It makes me feel at home."
Hearing this, I began to wonder, "What is the local taste of Okayama?"
Okayama has several long-established ramen shops, each with flavors rooted in the local area.
On the other hand, I realized that Okayama lacks the immediate characteristics that come to mind, like "tonkotsu soup, thin noodles, and extra noodles..." as seen in Hakata ramen.
In Okayama, while each flavor has its own characteristics and individuality, there isn't a unified image.
As I pondered this, I developed an interest in various local dishes and food cultures from all over Japan. So, I decided to travel to various places in the country.
While traveling and experiencing local cuisines and food cultures, my desire to run my own restaurant in the future grew stronger.
In fact, I originally entered the food and beverage industry because I wanted to run a shop. However, at that time, I didn't have a strong desire. It was more like, "It would be nice to run a restaurant in the future."
Through my travels, that vague idea transformed into a clear "goal."
At first, I thought a bakery might be good.
However, having worked in a ramen shop and acquired technical skills, I realized that I resonated greatly with the philosophy and thoughts of the founder of Ippudo, which had become second nature to me.
Thus, I decided to aim for a ramen shop in the future. Looking back, it can be said that aiming for a ramen shop was a natural progression.
After completing my journey around Japan, I studied and prepared for opening while working.
Wanting to nurture a taste unique to Okayama that is loved by the people of Okayama
What is the reason for the current style of ramen?
Ohno
If I were to run a ramen shop, I wanted to nurture a "taste unique to Okayama." I aimed for ramen that would be loved by the people of Okayama, with the concept of "A bowl that lights up Okayama."
So, when I thought about the flavors of long-loved, long-established ramen shops in Okayama City, I realized that the soup base is either chicken or pork.
The ramen culture in Okayama City is often discussed in terms of these two categories. The shop I loved as a child served soy sauce ramen primarily made from chicken bones. Therefore, I thought the base would be chicken bone-based ramen.
I set a specific goal of creating a ramen that is a modernized version of chicken bone-based ramen. From then on, I spent every day researching ramen-making at home while working.
I spent about two years in trial and error.
Thus, in 2018, I opened Men-sake Isshoan in Nakayashita, the center of Okayama City.
What is the origin of the name "Isshoan"?
Ohno
The name Isshoan is derived from the phrase "Illuminate a corner." This is a saying from Saicho, the founder of the Tendai sect, meaning "It is important for each person to shine brightly in their own place."
A corner refers to a small space. Even in a corner where light does not easily reach and is not noticeable, there are people who focus on it and work hard.
"Illuminate a corner" is one of the teachings of the founder of Ippudo, which has influenced me and become my motto.
Thus, I took the characters for "one" and "light" from "Illuminate a corner" and decided on the name "Isshoan." By the way, the corporate name "Ichiterasu" is also derived from "Illuminate a corner."
What was the trigger for opening a store at Kurashiki Tenmaya?
Ohno
I had originally considered opening a store in Kurashiki City. There were several customers who frequently came from Kurashiki to the Okayama main store in Nakayashita, and there were voices expecting a Kurashiki store.
I had always wanted to respond to those voices, but the timing and conditions had not aligned.
Then one day, I was approached by Tenmaya about opening a store in Kurashiki. I was truly grateful, and this became the opportunity to open at Kurashiki Tenmaya.
I believe there is a synergistic effect between our company and Tenmaya.
Utilizing the two strengths of ramen and sake to express individuality
Are there any original menu items at the Kurashiki Tenmaya store?
Ohno
The all-you-can-drink menu is currently (as of July 2025) exclusive to the Kurashiki Tenmaya store.
After opening the Kurashiki Tenmaya store, I found that more customers than expected were drinking. This may be due to its location, which is almost directly connected to JR Kurashiki Station.
Having realized the high demand for drinking, I anticipated that an all-you-can-drink option would also be in demand, so I decided to introduce it.
In the future, I am also considering introducing course meal menus and want to capture banquet needs.
By the way, the "children's menu" is not available at the main store, but it is available at the Nakasendo store and Kurashiki Tenmaya store. The Kurashiki Tenmaya store, being a department store, has many customers who come with children, so we accommodated that.
Why are you focusing not only on ramen but also on sake and snacks?
Ohno
I thought that just pursuing chicken ramen alone might be a bit weak. I felt the need to incorporate some sharp elements.
In fact, there was a time when I considered trying to run an izakaya as well. So I thought, "How about incorporating izakaya elements?"
Having two strengths, ramen and sake, would allow for a strong individuality.
Additionally, there is a restaurant called "Ramen Dining Gokyo" produced by Ippudo. This restaurant was a stylish place to enjoy ramen and sake.
I referenced Gokyo and came up with the idea of incorporating elements of a stylish ramen izakaya. I also added "Men-sake" before the name Isshoan.
I am particularly focusing on sake and chuhai, and I consult with sake shops to stock recommended sake. I aim for a good balance between local Okayama sake and sake from other prefectures.
What are the popular snacks and side dishes?
Ohno
The Potato Salad from the Noodle Shop with Smoked Pickled Radish and Ichitaba are popular.
The potato salad is overwhelmingly popular. Ichitaba comes in sweet and spicy flavor and salt lemon flavor, with the sweet and spicy flavor being the favorite. Ichitaba has sold over 1,000 pieces in a month.
For snacks and side dishes, I want to offer dishes that cannot be made at home or are difficult to make. I also try to slightly arrange standard dishes in the Isshoan style.
Four types of ramen born from trial and error
I want to know the background of the four main types of ramen.
Ohno
All four main types of ramen at our shop have a chicken bone-based broth. Therefore, they are called "Chicken Chuka Soba."
The base for all four types of ramen is a chicken soup made by adding Japanese-style dashi to the rich flavor of old chickens.
At the time of opening the Okayama main store, there were initially two types: "Chicken Chuka Soba with Raw Soy Sauce" and "Chicken Chuka Soba with Salt."
I originally wanted to create a chicken-based soy sauce ramen, and the first one I developed was the raw soy sauce. It is finished to allow you to fully enjoy the flavor of soy sauce.
When it actually came time to open, I thought it would be a bit lonely to have only soy sauce, so I developed the salt version. It is characterized by allowing you to enjoy the taste of chicken straight. In fact, it contains quite a bit of chicken oil (chiyu), so you can feel the umami strongly.
The "Chicken Chuka Soba with Clam" was announced in the first year after the Okayama main store opened. Clam refers to bivalves.
Actually, I had been thinking about making ramen using shellfish broth since before the establishment. Soy sauce and salt ramen allow for creativity in flavor.
I wanted to serve a new and refreshing ramen that customers would think, "I've never heard of this before," and "What does it taste like?" This was the reason for developing the clam ramen.
While there are some clam broth ramen in big cities, they are hardly known outside of ramen enthusiasts in rural areas.
The clam ramen uses clam broth, but since it is chicken chuka soba, the main broth is still chicken bone. It is combined with the broth of clams, asari, and shijimi.
After that, since we had the clean types of raw soy sauce, salt, and clam, I thought I wanted a flavor with more impact, so I decided to create a spicy ramen. That became "Chicken Chuka Soba with Spicy Flavor."
There is a certain number of people who like spicy food, and the spicy flavor has stable popularity.
At the time of opening the Okayama main store, the raw soy sauce was the most popular. After the clam was introduced, its popularity gradually rose, and it eventually became the most popular.
Now, there are people who associate Isshoan with clam, making it a signature menu item of our shop.
However, even though clam has surpassed it, soy sauce remains a classic flavor, so its popularity is still quite high.
At the Kurashiki Tenmaya store, clam is the most popular, followed by raw soy sauce.
Ramen that allows you to taste a full course meal in one bowl
Are there common features among the four types of ramen?
Ohno
The biggest common point is that the soup is mainly made from chicken bones.
There are also common ingredients. All four types include flavored eggs, thick menma, low-temperature cooked pork and chicken chashu, green onions, and mitsuba.
In particular, the use of mitsuba is rare in Okayama, and customers seem to feel it is one of our unique features.
The reason for using mitsuba was that I wanted something that would give the ramen a "face" that could be recognized as Isshoan at a glance. When I tried adding mitsuba, it turned out quite well.
Mitsuba has a strong image of Japanese cuisine, and I thought that just by adding it, the dish would instantly take on a stylish impression, elevating it to a higher level of cuisine.
Also, when you eat mitsuba, the aroma resets your palate, allowing you to enjoy the flavor of the ramen from the beginning again.
Additionally, being able to enjoy both pork and chicken chashu is also a highlight.
Furthermore, the inclusion of eggs is a point of pride. For me, eggs are like a dessert. I wanted customers to finish their ramen with the egg.
Our ramen is designed to provide the experience of enjoying a full course meal in one bowl.
What points did you focus on when creating the restaurant?
Ohno
I focused on creating an atmosphere that makes it easy for customers who might feel uncomfortable entering a typical ramen shop to feel relaxed and welcome.
Thanks to this, our shop attracts women and elderly customers, who are often considered difficult to draw into ramen shops. We also have customers who come alone.
Regarding the Okayama main store, we have recently seen a noticeable increase in foreign customers.
We aim to be a place where people of all ages can easily stop by.
Considering a challenge to a specialized ramen shop
Please tell us your aspirations for the future and what you would like to try.
Ohno
I would like to challenge myself to open a shop specializing in different types of ramen, such as a shop focused on miso ramen or a shop focused on dipping noodles.
Actually, I am currently running a miso ramen shop in a shared space in Hokancho (Okayama City). Despite the irregular hours, it has been more popular than expected.
First of all, my goal is to open an independent shop specializing in miso ramen.
Additionally, I want to achieve my initial goal of "bringing a new ramen to Okayama." Thanks to everyone, we have been loved by many customers. I want to become more rooted in the local community.
Once we establish a foundation in Okayama, I hope to expand to surrounding prefectures such as Chugoku and Shikoku.
Enjoy carefully crafted ramen, sake, and snacks at Men-sake Isshoan
Men-sake Isshoan Tenmaya Kurashiki is located in a convenient spot inside a department store in front of the station.
Of course, the carefully crafted ramen is appealing, but the side menu and sake and snacks are also attractive.
Please come and enjoy delicious ramen and more at the highly rated Men-sake Isshoan.
Data for Men-sake Isshoan Tenmaya Kurashiki
| Name | Men-sake Isshoan Tenmaya Kurashiki |
|---|---|
| Address | 6th floor, Kurashiki Tenmaya, 1-7-1 Achi, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture |
| Contact | 086-426-2639 |
| Parking | None Affiliated parking available at Tenmaya Kurashiki |
| Business Hours | 11:00 AM to 10:00 PM (Last order at 9:45 PM) |
| Regular Holidays | Irregular Wednesdays |
| Payment Methods |
|
| Reservation | No |
| Seating | 41 seats total ・Counter: 7 seats ・4-person tables: 4 tables ・6-person tables: 3 tables |
| Smoking | Completely non-smoking |
| Restroom | Western-style toilet, barrier-free toilet |
| Childcare | Diaper changing table Child-friendly utensils available Strollers allowed |
| Barrier-free | Barrier-free toilet, elevator Wheelchair accessible |
| Website | Ramen Izakaya "Men-sake Isshoan Kurashiki" |
