Have you ever been to Tamashima, Kurashiki City?
The central district of Tamashima is a port town that developed from the early Edo period.
You can sense echoes of the past in the old townhouses and shrines, including those in the historic district preserved for its townscape.
The scent of the Showa era also lingers in the shopping streets and throughout the town.
This article introduces the “Walking Tour of Tamashima,” held on November 23, 2022, as part of the “Bicchu no Machiya de Class” program.
Despite the rainy weather, we explored this peaceful town in a reflective mood, carrying nostalgia for the period from early modern times through the Showa era in our hearts.
The information presented here is current as of when this article was published in November 2022. Please note that it may differ from current information.
The origins of Tamashima
First, here is a brief explanation of how the area of Tamashima came to be.
In the Nara period, when the Man'yoshu was composed, there is said to have been a “small island like a jewel” in what is now Tamashima.
In the 12th century, a naval battle known as the “Battle of Mizushima” was fought between the Taira clan, who had taken up position on Kashima, and the Minamoto clan on Oteshima.
Later, land reclamation began in the Edo period, and in 1659, Mizutani, lord of the Bitchu-Matsuyama Domain, developed Tamashima Shinden Village (Tamashima Village).
In 1665, Haguro Shrine was established to pray for the safety of the new land development.
The embankment of Agasaki Shinden Village was also completed in 1670, shaping the central district of present-day Tamashima.
A canal called Takase-doshi, navigable by Takase boats, was dug from Tamashima Port to Funao (Ichinokuchi Sluice Gate), connecting the area to the Bitchu-Matsuyama Domain via the Takahashi River.
Walking Tour of Tamashima
We met at Shinbori River Green Space.
We crossed the drum-can bridge, made famous as a filming location for the movie “Tonbi,” passed through Torimachi Shopping Street, and continued along an alley where the remains of a sluice gate can be seen.
The area around Minato Bridge was a filming location for the movie “ALWAYS: Sunset on Third Street,” so it felt like the Showa era.
Saiso-tei
First, we visited “Saiso-tei.”
Saiso-tei is the part of the residence of the Yunoki family, who served as village headmen of Tamashima Village in the Bitchu-Matsuyama Domain during the Edo period, that was used as the domain lord’s quarters.
On the day, we were able to see a limited-time exhibition of the “Jewel of Tamashima.”
It is said that “two jewels” were unearthed while soil was being taken from the mountain for land reclamation.
This story is also considered one possible origin of the name Tamashima.
Haguro Shrine
Haguro Shrine was established on a small hill called Mount Amida and revered as the tutelary deity of Tamashima Village and Agasaki Shinden Village.
One of the subsidiary shrines on the grounds is Kumada Shrine, where Kumada Ataka, who took his own life during the “Tamashima Incident” at the end of the Edo period, is enshrined.
The article on Saiso-tei explains the “Tamashima Incident” in detail.
Although there were many cases at the time of people risking their lives to quell disturbances, it is impossible not to feel a sense of sorrow.
We gave thanks and prayed with our hands together for Kumada Ataka, who saved the town and people of Tamashima from turmoil.
Seiryuji Temple is the betto temple of Haguro Shrine.
The syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism was a long-standing Japanese custom.
The Meiji government’s policy of making Shinto the state religion led to the separation of shrines and temples, but it feels right to see them side by side.
Shinmachi Street
The embankment, completed in 1670, is known as the “Shinmachi Embankment.”
By closing off the area between Mt. Amidaga and Kashiwajima, development of the Agasaki reclaimed fields became possible.
Shinmachi Street was built atop the embankment, and is now part of the historic townscape preservation district.
It is said that storehouses lined the south side, while a wholesale district formed on the north side.
One of the storehouses on the south side is reportedly slated for preservation and renovation.
The plan is to reinforce it against earthquakes, renovate the interior, and complete “Tsuchigura no Hatoba,” a venue that can also host a market, during fiscal 2023.
Let’s look forward to it.
At the end of our three-hour town walk, we had coffee and cake at another machiya on the same Shinmachi Street, then went our separate ways.
Scenes like this are part of what makes a machiya special.
From the Writer
It is a little surprising to learn that it has been less than 400 years since the town of Tamashima was established.
However, the traces of our predecessors’ many hopes and efforts remain there, both tangible and intangible.
We can learn a great deal from history.
That is why I do not want history to fade away, and hope that not only intangible but also tangible historical heritage will be preserved as much as possible.
I am grateful to the people of Tamashima who are working to preserve its townscape.
I would also like to thank Kurashiki Machiya Trust for holding “Bicchu no Machiya de Class,” which gives people the opportunity to visit towns like these every year.
I’m sure it will be held again in 2023, so why not join in?
Bicchu no Machiya de Class: Nostalgic Future 2022 Information
| Name | Bicchu no Machiya de Class: Nostalgic Future 2022 |
|---|---|
| Dates | November 3–27, 2022 |
| Location | Varies by event |
| Admission (tax included) | Varies by event |
| Website | Bicchu no Machiya de Class: Nostalgic Future 2022 |
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