When you think of old buildings and cultural properties in Kurashiki, do you picture the Bikan Historical Area in the city center?
But many old buildings remain elsewhere in Kurashiki City, too.
One of them is the “Old Yunoki House (Saiso-tei)” in the center of Tamashima, in the western part of the city.
Built in the mid-Edo period, it is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property.
From the early Edo period, the Yunoki family prospered as merchants in Tamashima, a port town and commercial center, and also served as village headmen.
This is their residence.
Old Yunoki House is commonly known as “Saiso-tei.”
In fact, Saiso-tei is one of the buildings within the Yunoki family residence.
Although it is in a port town, it is distinctive for its samurai-residence-style design.
Old Yunoki House also includes a lifelong learning facility renovated from the main house, and is used for a variety of purposes.
Let’s explore the history and highlights of Old Yunoki House, where the dignity of the past remains even as it serves as a lifelong learning facility.
The information presented was current when this article was published in April 2021. Please note that it may differ from current information.
Old Yunoki House is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property built in the mid-Edo period
Old Yunoki House is in the center of Tamashima, in western Kurashiki City.
It faces the street one block south of Prefectural Route 191 in Tamashima 3-chome.
It is just southeast of “Gelato Oblate.”
Old Yunoki House was built in the mid-Edo period.
During the Edo period, the Yunoki family were merchants and village headmen in Tamashima, Asakuchi District, Bitchu Province (the present-day center of Tamashima).
It also served as the lord’s residence (a place to stay) when the lord of the Bitchu Matsuyama domain (based in the present-day center of Takahashi City, at Matsuyama Castle) visited Tamashima.
Old Yunoki House, which has stood since the mid-Edo period and was an important place in local history, is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property.
The three registered properties are the Saiso-tei building, the teahouse in the garden, and the Onari Gate.
Old Yunoki House consists of Saiso-tei and a lifelong learning facility
Old Yunoki House consists of two buildings.
On the left when facing the front (the west side) is a building called “Saiso-tei.”
On the right (the east side) is the former main house.
Saiso-tei retains much of its mid-Edo-period appearance and has a garden.
The main house was renovated while retaining the characteristics of an Edo-period townhouse.
Today, the main house is used as a lifelong learning facility.
Soichiro Yunoki talks about the history of Old Yunoki House
We spoke with Soichiro Yunoki, chair of the Kurashiki City Old Yunoki House Management Association, which manages Old Yunoki House, about its history.
Soichiro Yunoki is a member of the Yunoki family, which owned Old Yunoki House.
The Yunoki family were merchants and village headmen from the early Edo period
How long has the Yunoki family been around?
Yunoki (surname only)
The Yunoki family became merchants and village headmen around the early Edo period, when Tamashima’s port was created through land reclamation.
There is a record that the Yunoki family lived in an area called Kameyama before that.
However, it is unclear whether Kameyama refers to the Kameyama in present-day Tamashima or Kameyama in Tanba Province, where the Kameyama domain held territory in Tamashima during the Edo period (the domain was based in present-day Kameoka City, Kyoto Prefecture).
There are many places called Kameyama, so it may have been another Kameyama.
You said they were merchants. What kind of business did they do?
Yunoki
There are no surviving records, so the details are unknown, but the Yunoki family owned ships and made their fortune through trade by ship.
Some documents are now on display at Old Yunoki House, including materials related to the Yunoki family’s business.
Tamashima was a commercial port where Kitamaebune ships called, and it prospered as one of the largest commercial centers in the Seto Inland Sea region.
It was known as “Naniwa of the West.”
The Yunoki family was one of Tamashima’s leading merchant families and also served as village headmen.
What kind of building is Saiso-tei?
Yunoki
The Bitchu Matsuyama domain also held territory in Tamashima’s port town.
For that reason, the Yunoki family served the Matsuyama domain for generations.
Saiso-tei was built for the lord of the Matsuyama domain.
When the lord visited Tamashima, he would visit the Yunoki family and stay at Saiso-tei.
The Yunoki family were townspeople.
The lord’s special permission to let townspeople build a structure that they normally could not build is proof of the Yunoki family’s great wealth and the lord’s trust in them.
Saiso-tei also became a stage for historical events.
In his autobiography, Joseph Hardy Neesima, founder of Doshisha University, wrote that he visited Tamashima at age 19 in the final years of the Edo period and bathed at the Yunoki family residence.
Furthermore, during the upheaval from the end of the Edo period to the Meiji Restoration, an event called the “Tamashima Incident” took place in Tamashima.
Matsuyama domain samurai Kumata Ataka (given name: Noriyoshi) saved his comrades’ lives at the cost of his own at Saiso-tei in the Yunoki family residence.
The Tamashima Incident and Kumata Ataka’s seppuku saved the town of Tamashima
I’d like to learn more about the Tamashima Incident and Kumata Ataka.
Yunoki
The Tamashima Incident took place in Tamashima in mid-to-late January of Keio 4 (early to mid-February 1868).
Kumata Ataka, who took his own life during the Tamashima Incident, was a Matsuyama domain samurai from the castle town of Bitchu Matsuyama (the present-day center of Takahashi City).
In early January of Keio 4 (late January 1868), the Battle of Toba-Fushimi, which marked the beginning of the Boshin War, took place.
The lord of the Bitchu Matsuyama domain, Itakura Katsukiyo, was related to the Tokugawa family and had even served as chief of the senior councilors.
For this reason, the Itakura family sided with the shogunate.
Kumata served as the commander of the lord’s guard in Osaka Castle (in present-day Osaka City).
Later, the lord ordered him to return home, so he sailed back to Tamashima.
However, because the Matsuyama domain had sided with the shogunate, the new government branded it an enemy of the imperial court.
The Bizen Okayama domain, which sided with the new government, sent samurai to surround the town of Tamashima.
With a clash imminent, Kumata appealed to the Okayama domain to spare the lives of his more than 150 subordinates and bring the situation to a peaceful resolution in exchange for his own seppuku.
So Kumata took full responsibility for the entire Bitchu Matsuyama domain by himself?
Yunoki
That’s right.
The Okayama domain accepted Kumata’s plea, and on January 22, Keio 4 (February 15, 1868), Kumata committed seppuku at Saiso-tei.
He was 44 years old.
As promised, all his subordinates returned safely to Matsuyama. Later, Bitchu Matsuyama Castle, which had been occupied by the Okayama domain, surrendered without a fight, and the Itakura family remained in power.
Without Kumata Ataka’s actions, the Matsuyama domain samurai serving under him might have lost their lives.
That’s right.
And not only that—the town of Tamashima and the castle town of Matsuyama might have been engulfed in the flames of war.
For this reason, the people of Tamashima revered Kumata as the “benefactor of Tamashima” and built the “Kumata Shrine” in the grounds of Haguro Shrine in Tamashima to enshrine him.
A Kumata Shrine was also built in the grounds of Yaegaki Shrine in the center of Takahashi City, Kumata’s hometown.
His grave is at Dogenji Temple in Takahashi City.
Even today, traces of the blood splattered when Kumata committed seppuku remain at Saiso-tei.
The history of preservation efforts for Old Yunoki House
What happened to the Yunoki family residence in modern times?
Yunoki
After the war, the Yunoki family sold the main house and storehouse to a company and leased Saiso-tei to the same company.
It was a time of rapid technological development, and the company invited engineers and others from Europe and the United States to learn about technology.
The storehouse was converted into lodging, and the main house was used as a social gathering place.
As technology advanced, it was then used as accommodation for trainees from Asia.
Eventually, when people stopped coming from overseas, the buildings fell out of use.
Around that time, a construction project was planned to relocate residents around Old Yunoki House and build a sluice gate and pumping facility.
This prompted a movement led by local residents to revise the construction plan and preserve Old Yunoki House.
As a result, the construction plan was changed, and the city took ownership of Old Yunoki House to preserve and make use of it.
The residents’ voices moved businesses and the government.
Yunoki
Yes.
However, simply leaving the buildings as they are would make it difficult to preserve them indefinitely.
So it was decided to keep Saiso-tei as a visitor attraction, and renovate and use the main house as a lifelong learning facility open to many people while retaining as much of its original structure as possible.
Renovating the building while preserving its historic features took a great deal of time.
In 1998, it opened as the Old Yunoki House (Saiso-tei), a cultural facility combining a lifelong learning center and Saiso-tei.
Next, let’s look at the highlights of Old Yunoki House and how to visit and use the facility.
Saiso-tei was built for the lord of the Bitchu Matsuyama domain
Saiso-tei is a building that retains much of the atmosphere of the Edo period.
Visitors can still explore it freely today.
As mentioned earlier, Saiso-tei was built for visits by the lord of the Bitchu Matsuyama domain to Tamashima during the Edo period.
It is believed to have been built during the Tenmei era (1781–1789).
The name “Saiso-tei” was given by Kan Chazan, a Confucian scholar from Kannabe (the present-day centre of Kannabe-cho, Fukuyama City) in Anna District, Bingo Province, who visited the Yunoki family.
However, no records remain, so the origin or source of the name “Saiso” is unknown.
Although modest in scale, Saiso-tei is built in the style of a samurai residence.
The fact that the Yunoki family, ordinary townspeople, could build a residence in the samurai style shows that they were extremely wealthy merchants.
The domain lord also approved the construction, showing that the Yunoki family was held in high regard by the lord of the Bitchu Matsuyama domain.
Saiso-tei is in the port town of Tamashima, but it is rare throughout Japan to find a samurai-style residence in a town that is not a castle town.
How to visit Saiso-tei
In general, you can visit Saiso-tei freely during opening hours.
Admission is free.
Tell the staff at reception that you would like to visit Saiso-tei.
Follow the staff’s instructions and fill in the required information, such as your name and address, on the form before beginning your visit.
If you wish, a staff member can also show you around.
However, a guided tour may not be available depending on staff availability.
Highlights of Saiso-tei
Let’s take a look at the highlights of Saiso-tei in order.
Lord’s Gate (Yakuimon Gate)
The gate at the entrance is called the “Lord’s Gate” (onarimon).
Like the buildings of Saiso-tei, the gate is also a Registered Tangible Cultural Property.
It is built in a style called a yakuimon gate, which could originally only be built by high-ranking samurai and others of similar status.
The lord of the Bitchu Matsuyama domain gave the Yunoki family permission to build a yakuimon gate.
The gate shows just how influential the Yunoki family was.
The oddly shaped demon-face roof tile represents waves (water).
This is meant as “fire protection,” expressing the wish that no fire would break out.
The impure gate could not be opened from the inside; it is said that only things they never wanted to see again, such as criminals, were taken out through it.
Only the domain lord passed through the center of the gate.
It is also said that yakuimon may be a phonetic rendering of “arrow-eating gate,” and one theory is that it signifies protection from being caught up in conflict.
The gate cannot be passed through today.
Exterior
The roof of Saiso-tei features a karahafu gable, gently curving into a convex shape.
Its design is inspired by a kinchaku (drawstring pouch), and is said to express the wish that money will accumulate.
The combination of a gegyo incorporating soft fabric-like forms with the curved lines of the karahafu is said to be very unusual.
The waves also symbolize protection from fire.
Reception Room
The first room beyond the entrance is the “Reception Room” (toritsugi-no-ma).
The Reception Room was mainly used for storing luggage.
It measures six tatami mats.
A model of a ship once owned by the Bitchu Matsuyama domain is on display in the Reception Room.
It was loaned by the Doshisha Tamashima Niijima Research Group because of its connection to Jo Niijima, founder of Doshisha University.
Next Room (the room where Kumada Ataka committed seppuku)
The room at the back of the Reception Room is the “Next Room” (tsugi-no-ma).
The Next Room measures ten tatami mats.
Apparently, this is because rabbits were considered auspicious.
Notice how each rabbit faces a different direction.
They were labor-intensive to make, a feat possible only for a wealthy family like the Yunokis.
This Next Room is where Kumada Ataka, a samurai of the Matsuyama domain, committed seppuku during the Tamashima Incident.
There are bloodstains from when Kumada committed seppuku on the ceiling.
The blood was apparently wiped away after the seppuku, but the area where it had been remained discolored.
Upper Room
The room to the right of the next room when viewed from the entrance is the “Upper Room.”
This is where the feudal lord stayed.
It is a 10-tatami-mat room in the sukiya style.
It is interesting that all the rabbits in the Upper Room face toward the place where the feudal lord sat (the seat of honor, in front of the alcove).
The transom panels were decorated with bamboo and plum blossoms.
Bath, Toilet, and Hand-Washing Area
Farther back from the Upper Room were a bath, a toilet, and a hand-washing area.
The bath was reserved for the feudal lord.
Apparently, only simple rinsing baths were taken there.
The toilet is referred to as a kawaya.
It has a wooden floor, with a wooden urinal at the back.
Remarkably, it is as large as two tatami mats and has a tatami floor.
Please note that neither the toilet nor the bath can be used today.
Please do not use the toilet or bathe here.
Garden
Saiso-tei has a magnificent garden.
The tea house in the garden is a Registered Tangible Cultural Property.
Maple trees grow in the garden, offering a spectacular view during the autumn foliage season.
Overview of the Lifelong Learning Facility
The main house section of the Old Yunoki House is now a lifelong learning facility.
The lifelong learning facility can be used for a variety of purposes.
- Lessons and classes
- Tea gatherings
- Exhibitions
- Concerts
- Instrument practice
- Dance
- Meetings and gatherings
- Employee training
- Seminars and study groups
- Photo shoots
- Pre-wedding photos
Some people also hold cosplay photo shoots, and cosplayers apparently come from both within and outside the prefecture.
Events hosted by the Old Yunoki House are also held.
- Hina Matsuri event (late February to early March)
- Children’s Day event (late April to early May)
- Tanabata event (July)
Other events may also be held.
Facilities at the Lifelong Learning Facility
Prices include consumption tax. Information as of March 2021
The lifelong learning facility has four rooms.
| Room | Fee per hour | Size |
|---|---|---|
| Japanese-style Room 1 | ¥220 | 12 tatami mats |
| Japanese-style Room 2 | ¥220 | 12 tatami mats |
| Japanese-style Room 3 | ¥110 | 7.5 tatami mats |
| Meeting Room 1 | ¥220 | 70 square meters |
When Kumada Attaka committed seppuku, his blood splattered onto a draft petition that had been placed nearby.
A copy of the draft petition splattered with blood is also on display.
Japanese-style Room 1 has a sunken hearth in the center and can be used as a tea room.
Japanese-style Room 2 is on the second floor, above Japanese-style Room 1.
Japanese-style Room 3 is above Meeting Room 1 and uses part of what was once the attic.
It is equipped with a whiteboard and long tables, making it ideal for meetings and seminars.
The whiteboard and long tables can be rearranged.
The room can also be made spacious by putting away the long tables and other items.
Events hosted by Old Yunoki House are held here.
How to Use the Facility
Advance reservations are required to use the Lifelong Learning Facility.
Reservations cannot be made by phone or email.
Be sure to visit the reception at Old Yunoki House to make a reservation.
Payment is due when you make your reservation.
Payment is accepted in cash only.
Reservations are accepted from six months before the date of use.
You can call to check availability.
The Lifelong Learning Facility Was Once the Yunoki Family’s Main House
The building, once the Yunoki family’s main house, was renovated with care to preserve as much of its main structural framework as possible and put it to new use.
As a result, many traces of its days as the main house remain.
Some of the beams even reuse rudders from boats that were no longer in service.
I thought it was a unique beam, fitting for the Yunoki family, who made their fortune in the shipping trade.
The Yunoki family were both village headmen and merchants.
Their main house was a traditional merchant’s townhouse.
The space along the road was once used for business.
A head clerk (the equivalent of a store manager today) worked there, conducting business negotiations with customers.
The area facing the road was used for business, while the back was the living area.
The area around the present-day Meeting Room 1 was the living area.
There was once a storehouse outside the south side of Meeting Room 1.
The attic was also used for storage and as sleeping quarters for live-in workers.
Even after becoming a Lifelong Learning Facility, many traces of the main house’s past remain.
Experience the Spirit of Tamashima, a Commercial City Known as “Naniwa of the West”
Soichiro Yunoki said, “I hope you’ll visit Old Yunoki House, experience Tamashima’s history firsthand, and feel the spirit of Tamashima, which once flourished as a commercial city.”
Although both are in Kurashiki City, Bikan Historical Area and Tamashima have different origins and cultures.
At Old Yunoki House, experience the distinctive charm of Tamashima, a merchant town unlike Bikan Historical Area.
Articles about Japan Heritage in Kurashiki City
Old Yunoki House (Saiso-tei) Information
| Name | Old Yunoki House (Saiso-tei) |
|---|---|
| Location | 3-8-25 Tamashima, Kurashiki City |
| Contact | 086-522-0151 |
| Parking | Available About 7 spaces |
| Opening hours | 9:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m. |
| Closed | Mondays Year-end and New Year holidays Other times *If Monday is a public holiday, the facility is open and closed on the next non-holiday |
| Admission (tax included) | 【Saiso-tei】 Free admission 【Lifelong Learning Facility】 Meeting Room 1: ¥220 per hour Japanese-style Room 1: ¥220 per hour Japanese-style Room 2: ¥220 per hour Japanese-style Room 3: ¥110 per hour *Use of less than one hour is charged as one hour |
| Payment methods |
|
| Reservations | Available Reservations for the Lifelong Learning Facility can be made on-site (payment is due at the time of reservation) *Phone inquiries are for checking availability only; reservations cannot be made by phone *Reservations can be made from six months before the planned date of use *Reservations are not accepted for Saiso-tei |
| Smoking | Entire facility is non-smoking |
| Restrooms | Western-style and Japanese-style toilets |
| Families with children | Strollers are allowed inside (strollers are not allowed inside Saiso-tei) |
| Accessibility | Wheelchair access is available (Saiso-tei cannot be toured by wheelchair) Wheelchair-accessible restroom available |
| Website | Old Yunoki House (Saiso-tei) | Kurashiki Tourism WEB |
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