During the Edo period, Tamashima was a port town that flourished as one of the Seto Inland Sea’s leading commercial centers.
There are places where traces of Tamashima’s history remain to this day.
One is Haguro Shrine, which stands on Mt. Haguro in the heart of Tamashima.
It is Tamashima’s guardian shrine, watching over the town’s development.
Haguro Shrine has also attracted attention for its highly original, distinctive, and artistic goshuin stamps.
Let’s explore the history and appeal of Haguro Shrine.
The information presented was current when this article was published in August 2023. Please note that it may differ from current information.
Haguro Shrine: A guardian shrine built by the lord of the Bitchu-Matsuyama Domain for Edo-period land reclamation in Tamashima
Haguro Shrine stands atop a small, rounded hill called “Mt. Haguro” in the heart of Tamashima.
There are three approaches to Haguro Shrine, on the east, west, and south sides of Mt. Haguro.
The eastern and western approaches are both accessible by car.
The parking lot is on the west side of the shrine grounds.
In fact, the entire Tamashima area was once under the sea.
In the early Edo period, the Bitchu-Matsuyama Domain reclaimed the land, creating a broad expanse of new land.
When the Matsuyama Domain reclaimed the Tamashima area, its lord, Mizunoya Katsutaka, established Haguro Shrine in 1658 to pray for the success of the reclamation and the peace and stability of the land it would create.
Since then, it has been cherished by local residents as Tamashima’s guardian shrine.
After the land was reclaimed, a port was built in what is now central Tamashima. The port town that grew up around it developed into one of the Seto Inland Sea’s leading commercial centers, earning the nickname “Naniwa of the West.”
As a result, Haguro Shrine was revered by successful merchants and by merchants who came to Tamashima to trade aboard Kitamaebune cargo ships.
Despite its size, Haguro Shrine’s buildings feature an abundance of ornamentation, and the ornamental details are exceptionally fine and artistic.
Haguro Shrine preserves the story of Tamashima’s former prosperity as a commercial city.
In spring 2018, the tamagaki (stone fence) and ship votive tablet on the shrine grounds were recognized as component cultural properties of the Japan Heritage “A different world entwined with the dreams of men who overcame the stormy seas ～Ports of call for Kitamaebune ships and shipowner settlements～.”
Highlights of Haguro Shrine
Haguro Shrine has many highlights.
Here are some of the ones you should be sure to see.
Worship Hall
The worship hall is the building where visitors pray to the deity enshrined at a shrine.
When you visit Haguro Shrine, begin by praying at the worship hall.
Haguro Shrine’s worship hall is a very old building, rebuilt in 1854, in the late Edo period.
At first glance, it looks like an ordinary shrine worship hall, but pay attention to the decorations.
Fine decorations adorn many different parts of the building.
The abundance of decorations and the care taken over them are proof that Tamashima once flourished as a commercial city.
It was the presence of so many wealthy merchants that made these elaborate decorations possible.
These are just a few examples.
Take your time and look closely.
Karasu Tengu
Sitting on the roof of the worship hall, as if looking down over the shrine and town, is the “karasu tengu.”
Haguro Shrine was established by transferring the deity from Mt. Haguro in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture (more on this later).
It is said that the karasu tengu was also brought here when Haguro Shrine was established.
Today, the karasu tengu is beloved as a symbol of Haguro Shrine.
A town-revitalization mascot inspired by the crow tengu, Haguron, has also appeared, and a crow tengu costume contest is held at the spring festival.
The crow tengu is also Tamashima’s town mascot.
Main Hall
The large building behind the worship hall is the main hall.
It is the building where the deity is enshrined.
Haguro Shrine’s main hall was rebuilt in 1851, during the late Edo period.
Like the worship hall, it is very old.
As with the worship hall, take a close look at the decorations on the main hall.
On the front of the main hall are images of two karyobinga, one on each side.
They are mythical birds with human upper bodies, said to live in the heavens and sing in exceptionally beautiful voices.
Above them is a manji symbol, a remnant of the former syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism.
The main hall, too, is adorned with many finely detailed decorations.
Among the main hall’s decorations, the Seven Lucky Gods are especially worth noting.
Statues of the Seven Lucky Gods are also placed around the main hall.
As with the worship hall, the decorations described here are only a small selection.
Be sure to look for more when you visit.
Hexagonal Stone Lantern (Kurashiki City-designated Structure)
A pair of hexagonal stone lanterns stands on either side of the main hall.
They were donated in 1692 by Mizunoya Katsutaka, lord of the Bitchu-Matsuyama Domain, who enshrined Haguro Shrine.
The hexagonal stone lanterns are among the oldest surviving objects at Haguro Shrine.
For this reason, the hexagonal stone lanterns are designated cultural properties of Kurashiki City.
Shrines on the Grounds
Shrines on the grounds are shrines enshrined within the precincts, other than the main shrine.
Many shrines on the grounds are enshrined within Haguro Shrine’s precincts.
Here are some notable ones.
Sugawara Shrine, Mizunoya Shrine and Sumiyoshi Shrine, Warei Shrine
At the back left, facing the main hall, is Sugawara Shrine; in the middle are Mizunoya Shrine and Sumiyoshi Shrine; and on the right is Warei Shrine.
The three shrines on the grounds stand side by side.
Sugawara Shrine on the left enshrines Sugawara no Michizane.
He is well known as the deity of learning.
As its name suggests, Mizunoya Shrine in the center enshrines Mizunoya Katsutaka, who reclaimed land in Tamashima and built Haguro Shrine.
It also enshrined Katsutaka’s son, Mizunoya Katsumune, and grandson, Mizunoya Katsuyoshi, who served as lords of the Matsuyama Domain after him.
Sumiyoshi Shrine was originally located on a hill called Sumiyoshi-yama, about 500 meters west of Haguro Shrine.
It was moved to the grounds of Haguro Shrine.
Warei Shrine on the right is believed to have been established by transferring the enshrined deity from Warei Shrine, which enshrines Yamaga Seibei of Uwajima City, Ehime Prefecture.
Kumata Shrine
Kumata Shrine is one of the shrines on the grounds lined up to the right of the main hall.
Kumata Shrine enshrines Kumata Ataka.
During the Tamashima Incident at the end of the Edo period, Kumata took his own life at Saiso-tei (Old Yunoki House (Saiso-tei)).
Kumata is regarded as a hero of the town for preventing Tamashima from being caught up in the fighting.
In gratitude, the residents of Tamashima built Kumata Shrine.
For more about Kumata Ataka and the Tamashima Incident, see the article on Saiso-tei.
The Musubi Pine
The “Musubi Pine” stands just to the right of the main sanctuary, as you face it.
Remarkably, its branches are tied together in the middle like a cord.
For this reason, it is said to bring good fortune in finding a partner.
Couples who hold their wedding ceremony at Haguro Shrine are given a handmade heart-shaped ema, which they dedicate at the shrine.
Ema Hall
Just up the stone steps of the south approach, on the left, is the “Ema Hall.”
Large ema are displayed high up inside the hall.
Among them are ship ema, once dedicated by merchants.
The ship ema are among the constituent cultural properties of the Japan Heritage site “A different world entwined with the dreams of men who overcame the stormy seas — Ports of call and shipowner settlements of the Kitamaebune.”
Tamagaki
The tamagaki (shrine fences) are another highlight of Haguro Shrine.
Tamagaki are fences or enclosures surrounding a shrine precinct or sanctuary.
The names and regions of those who made donations to the shrine are inscribed on the tamagaki.
The tamagaki at Haguro Shrine bear the names of many people from the surrounding area, as well as from Tamashima itself.
Among them, in fact, are also the names of people from distant regions.
For example, Hakodate (present-day Hakodate City), Akita (present-day Akita City), Awa Province (present-day Tokushima Prefecture), and Osaka (present-day Osaka City).
Merchants from distant regions who visited Tamashima also made donations to Haguro Shrine.
In other words, merchants from various regions arrived by ship to trade at Tamashima Port, including aboard Kitamaebune vessels. This is evidence that Tamashima flourished as a commercial city.
For this reason, the tamagaki at Haguro Shrine became a constituent cultural property of the Japan Heritage site “A different world entwined with the dreams of men who overcame the stormy seas — Ports of call and shipowner settlements of the Kitamaebune.”
People may not usually pay much attention to tamagaki, but take time to look closely at them at Haguro Shrine.
Haguro Shrine’s goshuin and goshuincho are also highlights
Haguro Shrine’s goshuin are also worth a look.
They are highly artistic and crafted with great care.
For example, they have the following features:
- There are two standard goshuin and one goshuin that changes monthly
- The woodblock prints stamped on the goshuin are handmade by shrine staff
- The design and imagery of the monthly goshuin change every month
- The motifs for the monthly goshuin include decorations on Haguro Shrine’s buildings
- The monthly goshuin designs incorporate a sense of the season and include a single kanji character
When we visited, we received both of the two standard goshuin.
We also received the monthly goshuin.
The motif on the goshuin we received during our visit was the kyonomakigawara roof tile on the karahafu gable of the worship hall.
Since we visited in April, it featured a swallow and the single character “颯” (hayate, satsu, or so).
Details of the monthly goshuin are posted on Haguro Shrine’s official Instagram by the end of the previous month, so be sure to check.
Past goshuin
Here are some examples of past goshuin.
In the past, there was also an eight-page “series” goshuin that could be completed by receiving one each month for four consecutive months.
Inspired by the doors of the main sanctuary, a pair of “Karyobinga” figures are displayed at the front of the sanctuary.
The goshuin inside the opened section is inspired by the sacred mirror, the object of worship.
It also features decorations such as the baku on the main sanctuary.
It is easier to understand by watching the video, so please refer to the one below.
Previously, the shrine also offered goshuin books made of black washi paper.
The connected series of goshuin featuring a sacred sword (寶劍), completed over several months for those black-washi goshuin books, is truly a masterpiece.
The video also makes the connected series of black-washi goshuin easier to understand, so please watch the one below.
The designs around the sword are patterns inspired by the plants painted on the coffered ceiling of the worship hall.
How to Receive Goshuin
Goshuin are available at the shamusho (shrine office).
The initial offering for either of the two regular goshuin is 500 yen each, and for the monthly goshuin it is 1,000 yen.
As many people request goshuin, it is difficult to receive them on the day of your visit.
Instead, you leave your goshuin book at the shrine office and collect it later.
There are two ways to collect it:
- Pick it up yourself at Haguro Shrine
- Have it sent by mail
If you would like it mailed, an additional 180 yen postage fee is required, in addition to the initial offering for the goshuin.
There are three ways to check whether your goshuin is ready:
- Check the top page of the Haguro Shrine official website
- Check the Haguro Shrine official blog
- Check Haguro Shrine on Instagram
Please check using whichever method is convenient for you.
Haguro Shrine’s Original Goshuin Books
Haguro Shrine also has original goshuin books.
The original goshuin books come in two colors: matcha green and deep indigo.
The matcha green represents Tamashima’s long tradition of tea ceremony, while the deep indigo is inspired by the night sea as seen from a Kitamaebune ship.
The matcha-green book has cotton twill fabric on the front and denim fabric on the back.
The deep-indigo book is made of denim fabric on both the front and back.
The original goshuin book comes with a limited-edition two-page goshuin on its first page.
The original goshuin books are available only while supplies last.
To receive an original Haguro Shrine goshuin book, please make an initial offering of 3,700 yen per book at the shrine office.
Events at Haguro Shrine
Haguro Shrine holds many events throughout the year.
Among them, the following events are especially noteworthy:
| Event | When Held | Main Highlights |
|---|---|---|
| Shichifukujin Festival | March | ・Lucky draw ・Hina Matsuri event “Tamashima Minato Ohina-zukushi” |
| Sumiyoshi and Mizutani Shrine Grand Festival | May | ・Mikoshi (portable shrine) ・Karasu-tengu Costume Contest |
| Sugawara Shrine Tenjin Festival | July | ・Mikoshi ・Funetogyo (boat procession) |
| Haguro Shrine Grand Festival | October | ・Mikoshi ・Senzairaku (festival float) |
The mikoshi at Haguro Shrine’s Grand Festival is the largest of the three mikoshi.
For details about events at Haguro Shrine, please see the Haguro Shrine official website.
History of Haguro Shrine
What kind of history does Haguro Shrine have?
Let’s explore.
Tamashima’s Land Emerges Through Land Reclamation
The area around central Tamashima was originally sea.
Places that remain in Tamashima’s place names today, such as Kashiwajima, Otoshima, and Nanashima, were also islands.
Haguroyama, where Haguro Shrine stands, was also called “Amidayama” and was a small island floating between Kashiwajima and Otoshima.
In 1642, when Mizutani Katsutaka became lord of the Bitchu-Matsuyama Domain, the domain, which governed the area around Kashiwajima, Otoshima, and Nanashima, began reclaiming land from the sea.
The previous domain lord, Ikeda Nagatsune, had already reclaimed land around Nagao (present-day Nagao, Tamashima, Kurashiki City), but even larger-scale reclamation followed.
Mizutani Katsutaka began land reclamation in 1642, gradually extending the land farther offshore.
In 1655, the largest-scale reclamation project began.
Mizutani Katsutaka prayed for the successful completion of the reclamation work and the development of the reclaimed land, and in 1658, he enshrined Haguro Shrine on Amidayama.
The reclamation work was completed in 1659, and the newly created land was called Tamashima Shinden (present-day Tamashima, Kurashiki City).
Furthermore, the port around Haguroyama (Tamashima Port) flourished as a commercial port, and the surrounding port towns also developed.
Haguro Shrine Flourished Along with Tamashima
Kitamaebune ships called at Tamashima Port.
Kitamaebune ships sailed between Hokkaido and Osaka (present-day Osaka City), following a route through the Sea of Japan, the Kanmon Strait, and the Seto Inland Sea.
Cotton cultivation flourished around Tamashima.
Meanwhile, herring fishing thrived on the Sea of Japan coast.
Tamashima needed herring meal as fertilizer for cotton cultivation.
As a result, trade in herring meal transported by Kitamaebune ships and cotton grown in Tamashima became brisk, and Tamashima grew into one of the leading commercial cities in the Seto Inland Sea region.
At its peak, Tamashima’s port town had more than 40 shipping wholesalers (kaisen donya: maritime transport businesses).
As Tamashima developed as a commercial city, the number of wealthy merchants grew.
Successful local merchants and merchants who visited Tamashima aboard Kitamaebune ships made donations to Haguro Shrine, helping it grow.
In this way, Haguro Shrine came to be cherished as Tamashima’s guardian shrine, as it is to this day.
We interviewed Chief Priest Fukuda Makoto.
Haguro Shrine Information
| Name | Haguro Shrine |
|---|---|
| Location | 1-12-1 Tamashima Chuo-cho, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture |
| Contact | 086-522-2695 |
| Parking | Available |
| Enshrined Deities | Tamayorihime-no-Mikoto Susanoo-no-Mikoto Okuninushi-no-Mikoto Kotoshironushi-no-Mikoto |
| Blessings | Business prosperity, fulfillment of good fortune, matchmaking, and more |
| Goshuin (initial offering) | Available (500 yen or 1,000 yen) ※The initial offering varies depending on the type of goshuin |
| Visiting Hours | Open for visits at any time |
| Reception Hours | 9 a.m.–4 p.m. |
| Closing Days | None |
| Admission | Free |
| Payment Methods for Admission and Initial Offerings |
|
| Restrooms | No restrooms |
| Website | Welcome to Haguro Shrine - Haguro Shrine Page! |
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