Interview with representative Haruyama Masataka
As far as Haruyama knows, there are only two places in Japan that serve the unusual “genmaicha brewed in a siphon.” We asked him about his dedication to tea and the story behind the ochazuke.
His dedication to brewing genmaicha in a siphon
What inspired you to brew tea in a siphon?
Haruyama (honorific omitted)
LOGIN Kurashiki, where our shop is located, was created with the aim of making the entire facility a welcoming space for overseas travelers. So, when I thought about how to introduce them to Japanese culture, I came up with the idea of serving Japanese tea.
We decided to create our original “genmaicha” so that guests could enjoy tea carefully brewed one cup at a time in a siphon.
Developing original genmaicha
Why didn’t you use commercially available genmaicha?
Haruyama
Because we wanted to serve tea that was unique to Waru Proposta.
Since siphons reach high temperatures, we worked with a tea shop and tried various tea leaves. In the end, we settled on karigane and kami-aoyagi.
Choosing the brown rice was the difficult part. When we put most varieties in the roaster, they just burned, and the grains wouldn’t pop properly.
At last, we found “Nikomaru,” grown in Okayama Prefecture.
What makes roasting difficult?
Haruyama
The temperature and humidity change every day, so I suppose the challenge is that you have to adjust the roasting to those subtle differences to make fragrant, mellow genmaicha.
As I check the roaster’s temperature, I watch the rice change color and see how well it pops, while smelling how the aroma changes. I focus all my attention on my eyes and nose as I roast it.
Why do you serve the roasted brown rice alongside the tea?
Haruyama
You can eat it as is, enjoy its texture as a topping for ochazuke, or add it to the tea like arare rice crackers and enjoy the aroma. I serve it hoping people will enjoy the tea with all five senses.
What led to adding ochazuke to the regular menu?
Tell us how ochazuke came to be added to the menu.
Haruyama
We heard that many customers were looking for somewhere to eat, and the idea came from trying our signature genmaicha as ochazuke.
At first, we only offered salmon and cod roe, but we added miso-grilled rice ball ochazuke and Saikyo-yaki ochazuke to the menu with an eye to local produce and seasonal ingredients.
Ochazuke seems like a light meal, but the toppings are large enough to be the main dish in a set meal.
Haruyama
Rather than serving a small portion, I wanted people to enjoy a hearty serving, leave feeling full, and enjoy Kurashiki.
Some people come two days in a row, and the response from customers was better than we expected. So, although we initially served it only in the morning, we decided to offer it all day.
The future of Waru Proposta and Haruyama’s hopes
What kind of place would you like Waru Proposta to become in downtown Kurashiki?
Haruyama
After exploring Kurashiki, I hope people will enjoy ochazuke or take their time over tea and spend time experiencing Japan. I’d like this to become that kind of place.
And I’d like to take on various challenges, including developing the menu and our business style, as well as the lunches and dinners that we currently offer by reservation.
From the Writer
The new ochazuke menu, available anytime without a reservation, was a hearty yet delicate dish packed with the care and attention the shop puts into its food.
In addition to caneles, Waru Proposta takes Japanese flavors seriously, serving sweets made with its prized red bean paste cooked in a copper pot. Why not stop by for a comforting break, either over breakfast or after exploring the town, at this shop tucked away at the end of a narrow alley leading into the Bikan Historical Area?
It seems Haruyama still has plenty of new ideas in mind.
We look forward to seeing how the menu develops and Waru Proposta continues to evolve.
Waru Proposta details
| Name | Waru Proposta |
|---|---|
| Address | 20-9 Achi 2-chome, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture (inside LOGIN Kurashiki) |
| Contact | 080-4421-3343 |
| Parking | None |
| Business hours | 8:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m. |
| Closed | Wednesday If Wednesday is a holiday, the regular closing day is moved to the following day |
| Payment methods |
|
| Reservations | Available Reservations are required for lunch and dinner |
| Seating | 20 seats in total, including tables and counter seats |
| Smoking | Entirely non-smoking Non-smoking |
| Restrooms | Western-style restroom, accessible restroom Western-style and accessible |
| Childcare | Diaper-changing table Available |
| Accessibility | Accessible restroom Available |
| Website | Waru Proposta |
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