The Funao area of Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture, is known as a grape-growing region. Numerous greenhouses line the hillsides, and greenhouse cultivation is thriving.
Among the varieties grown here, 90% of Muscat of Alexandria grapes are cultivated in Okayama Prefecture, and most of them are shipped from the Funao area.
The author, who is from Kurashiki City, grew up hearing, “When you say muscat, you mean Muscat of Alexandria,” but it seems things have changed recently. Popularity has shifted to Shine Muscat grapes, which are seedless and can be eaten with the skin on.
As the number of growers declines along with demand, some people are making wine from Muscat of Alexandria to preserve the culture of the Funao area.
That person is Matsui Kazunori of the winery GRAPE SHIP. We spoke with Matsui about his work through winemaking and his feelings about Muscat of Alexandria.
The information provided is as of the article’s publication in December 2024. Please note that it may differ from current information.
Matsui’s encounter with natural wine
Matsui is from Kurashiki City. He has experience working as a French chef in the Kansai region, and studied in France from 2006 to 2007 to research cuisine and wine. Before his studies, Matsui traveled to France and visited Ooka Hirotake, a natural winemaker active there. This encounter would go on to greatly change Matsui’s life.
Natural wine is made from grapes grown and fermented without the use of chemicals.
About a month later, he returned to France to study, but the place where he was supposed to train in cooking turned him away, saying, “We’ve already found someone, so we can’t take you.”
Matsui had gotten off to a rough start. When he asked Ooka whether the winery needed help, Ooka agreed to take him on.
Until he began helping at the winery, Matsui had worked indoors as a chef. He says that working outdoors felt good. Gradually, he became increasingly eager to become a farmer.
After returning to Japan, he went back to the food service industry, but his desire to work outdoors remained unchanged. He had wanted to return to his hometown and start farming near his parents, and then he found a recruitment notice in Kurashiki City for new Muscat of Alexandria growers. He says he applied because he wanted to farm, rather than because he wanted to make wine. Matsui began a new chapter in his life in 2010.
Impressed by natural wine in France, Matsui wanted to make wine that he himself would like to drink, and set out to become a winemaker.
His first natural wine was completed in 2019, and a winery was established on a hill in the Funao area in 2021. Since then, he has steadily gained fans. On several occasions, when I was dining at a restaurant, the owner happily told me, “We’ve got GRAPE SHIP’s wine in stock.” Some restaurants even display empty GRAPE SHIP bottles. It seems to be loved not only by the general public, but also by restaurants.
Currently, he makes three main natural wines: “mellow,” made from white wine (Muscat of Alexandria); “mellow Blue Label,” made from red wine; and the rosé “Aka.”
A memorable harvest experience
GRAPE SHIP’s work goes beyond winemaking. It also runs projects in collaboration with the local community. One such project is a grape-harvesting experience for children at Takara Nursery School in the Funao area.
The “Memorable Harvest Experience,” launched to introduce children to local specialties and farming, is now in its fourth year (2024).
We covered the experience of harvesting Muscat of Alexandria grapes, pressing them, and drinking the juice.
Grape picking
After a brief explanation of grape picking, the children headed to the greenhouse where Muscat of Alexandria grapes are grown.
The grapes were growing at a height that made them easy for adults to work with. But they were too high for the children to reach. They harvested them while adults held their step stools steady.
The experience took place in mid-October, toward the end of the harvest season.
Following the instructions they had been given, the children held the bunches underneath and cut them off carefully so they wouldn’t drop.
“Look! I picked a big one!” “I want to pick that one!” Excited, cheerful voices could be heard all around, and smiles filled the air.
When they were told they could taste the grapes, the children who took a bite smiled and said, “Sweet!” and “Delicious!” I tried some too. The distinctive, refined, refreshing sweetness of Muscat of Alexandria spread across my palate.
Thanks to the children’s efforts, a basket was filled with Muscat of Alexandria grapes in no time.
Pressing the grapes into juice
Next, they pressed the freshly harvested Muscat of Alexandria grapes and drank the juice.
With help from the adults, the children transferred the Muscat of Alexandria grapes from a box into a machine.
The grapes were slowly pressed in a special machine to extract the juice. The children watched with great interest. They cheered as soon as the juice began to flow.
The freshly pressed juice was handed out to everyone, and they toasted. The children seemed to enjoy it, and many asked for seconds. Some had three cups. Each three cups, it seems, is equivalent to one bunch of grapes.
Harvesting a local specialty, turning it into juice right before your eyes, and drinking it—being able to have such a precious experience as a child seems like a wonderful privilege. The children were smiling from beginning to end. I’m sure it will remain a happy memory for them.
GRAPE SHIP not only makes natural wine, but also provides children with food education experiences. We spoke with its representative director, Matsui Kazunori.
GRAPE SHIP details
| Name | GRAPE SHIP |
|---|---|
| Address | 7153-1 Funao, Funao-cho, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture |
| Contact | Not disclosed |
| Website | GRAPE SHIP |
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