The Funao area in Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture, is known as a grape-producing region. Numerous greenhouses line the mountainside, and greenhouse cultivation is thriving.
Among them, the Muscat of Alexandria variety is cultivated 90% in Okayama Prefecture, with most of it shipped from the Funao area.
The author, who is from Kurashiki City, grew up hearing, "When you think of Muscat, you think of Muscat of Alexandria," but it seems that circumstances have changed recently. Popularity has shifted to the seedless Shine Muscat, which can be eaten with the skin.
As the number of producers decreases due to declining demand, there are people in the Funao area who are making wine from Muscat of Alexandria to preserve the culture of the region.
One of them is Kazunori Matsui of the winery GRAPE SHIP. I interviewed Matsui about his activities through winemaking and his feelings towards Muscat of Alexandria.
Matsui's Encounter with Natural Wine
Matsui, who is from Kurashiki City, has experience working as a French chef in Kansai and studied cooking and wine in France from 2006 to 2007. Before studying abroad, Matsui visited Hirotake Ooka, a natural wine producer active in France. This event would greatly change Matsui's life later on.
Natural wine is wine made from grapes cultivated and fermented without chemical agents.
About a month later, Matsui went to France again for his studies, but he was turned away from his training site because they said, "We have already chosen someone."
Having been thwarted at the start, Matsui consulted Ooka about whether he needed help at the winery, and he was accepted.
Until he helped at the winery, Matsui had always worked indoors as a chef, and he says, it felt good to work outside. Gradually, his desire to become a farmer grew.
After returning to Japan, he went back to the food and beverage industry, but his desire to work outdoors did not change. He wanted to start farming back in his hometown, close to his parents, and discovered a recruitment for new farmers of Muscat of Alexandria in Kurashiki City. At that time, he applied with the thought of wanting to do agriculture rather than making wine. This was in 2010 when Matsui began his new life.
Inspired by natural wine in France, Matsui wanted to create the wine he wanted to drink and moved into winemaking.
In 2019, his first natural wine was completed, and the winery was established on the hills of Funao in 2021. Since then, he has steadily increased his fan base. The author has also been told several times by restaurant owners, "We just received wine from GRAPE SHIP," with joy. Some restaurants even display empty bottles from GRAPE SHIP. It seems to be loved not only by general customers but also by restaurants.
Currently, the natural wines he produces can be broadly categorized into three types: white wine (Muscat of Alexandria) called "mellow," red wine called "mellow blue label," and rosé called "aka."
Memorable Harvest Experience
The activities of GRAPE SHIP are not limited to winemaking. They also engage in projects that collaborate with the community. One of these is the harvest experience for children at Takara Nursery School in the Funao area.
The "Memorable Harvest Experience," which started to help children learn about local specialties and agricultural work, is now in its fourth year (2024).
I covered the experience of harvesting Muscat of Alexandria and squeezing it to drink juice.
Grape Picking
After a brief explanation about grape picking, the children headed to the greenhouse for Muscat of Alexandria.
The grapes were at a height that made it easy for adults to work. However, for the children, they were too high to reach. They harvested with the help of adults holding a step stool.
The experience took place in mid-October, towards the end of the harvest season.
The children carefully followed instructions, holding the bunches from below to cut them without dropping them.
"Look! I picked a big one!" "I want to pick this one!" Energetic and cheerful voices were heard everywhere, and smiles were abundant.
When they were told they could taste, a child who took a bite exclaimed, "It's sweet!" and "Delicious!" The author also enjoyed some. The elegant and refreshing sweetness unique to Muscat of Alexandria spread in my mouth.
With the children's efforts, a basket full of Muscat of Alexandria was quickly gathered.
Squeezing Juice
Next, the freshly harvested Muscat of Alexandria will be squeezed to make juice.
With the help of adults, the children moved the Muscat of Alexandria from the box to the machine.
Using a special machine, the juice is slowly squeezed out under pressure. The children were very interested, and cheers erupted the moment the juice started to flow.
They distributed the freshly squeezed juice to everyone and toasted. It seemed to be delicious for the children, as there were many requests for seconds. Some children even drank three cups. It is said that three cups equal one bunch.
Harvesting local specialties, squeezing juice right in front of them, and drinking it. I thought it was a luxury and a blessing for children to have such a valuable experience. The children were full of smiles from start to finish. Surely, it will remain a fun memory for them.
Not only producing natural wine but also providing food education experiences for children, GRAPE SHIP. I spoke with the representative director, Kazunori Matsui.
GRAPE SHIP Data
| Name | GRAPE SHIP |
|---|---|
| Address | 7153-1 Funao-cho, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture |
| Contact | Not disclosed |
| Website | GRAPE SHIP |
