When it comes to Japanese-made jeans, Kojima in Kurashiki City is famous for Kojima Jeans Street. But do you know where the denim fabric used to make jeans is produced?
In fact, more than 90% of Japan’s denim is produced in the Bingo region, including Ibara City and neighboring Fukuyama City in Hiroshima Prefecture.
Onohanako Shoten, located in Ibara City, is an experiential denim shop that opened in April 2020 with the aim of “sharing the appeal of Ibara denim through craftsmanship.”
As well as buying denim fabric and accessories, visitors can try making original items using Ibara denim.
I made a clutch bag using denim fabric that can only be found in Ibara, the home of denim.
The information presented is current as of when this article was published in April 2021. Please note that it may differ from current information.
Experiential Denim Shop Onohanako Shoten
In April 2020, Ibara Denim Square Garden opened in Shinmachi Shopping Street, right by Ibara Tsutsumi, famous for its cherry blossom tunnel.
This denim-themed complex houses three shops and a hotel annex.
- Experiential Denim Shop Onohanako Shoten
- Indigo-dyed knitwear ID&i .
- Coffee stand AIIRO COFFEE STAND
- ANNEX, an annex of the Maizururo Hotel (4 guest rooms)
In the courtyard, there is a stage displaying a giant pair of jeans. There is also a panel exhibit where you can learn about the history of denim.
Onohanako Shoten, located in Ibara Denim Square Garden, also opened in April 2020.
The shop stocks mainly denim fabric and denim accessories, as well as denim masking tape and socks made from denim cutting scraps.
Shop owner Hanako Ono plans, designs, and sews bags, hats, and other items using Ibara denim under her original brand H.Faire, and is sharing the appeal of Ibara denim.
The shop’s standout feature is its workspace lined with sewing machines.
Here, you can try making things using Ibara denim.
“Ibara Denim,” with a longer history than Japanese-made jeans
Indigo-dyed textiles have been made in Ibara since the mid-Edo period.
From the Meiji to Taisho periods, indigo-dyed textiles similar to American denim were produced here, including a fabric called “Uraj iro,” a type of Bitchu Kokura-ori.
In other words, fabric similar to denim was being made here before jeans became popular in Japan after the end of the war.
Even today, Ibara is a major denim-producing area, with factories making denim fabric as well as factories cutting, sewing, and processing jeans.
The term “Ibara denim” was registered as a regional collective trademark in March 2019.
A regional collective trademark is a system that allows the name of a “local specialty,” made up of a place name and a product name, to be registered as a trademark.
Ibara denim has supported Japanese-made jeans since their early days, but apparently the production area was rarely made public because of contractual arrangements with manufacturers.
Registration as a regional collective trademark seems to be proof that Ibara’s historic denim industry is being recognized anew as an asset of the region.
Ms. Ono told us about two representative types of Ibara denim.
One is selvedge denim.
It is a special denim fabric used for vintage jeans and other items.
Because of the red stitching along the edge, it is also called “red ear.”
Selvedge denim has a loose tension (weave), a texture close to handwoven fabric, and a rough surface.
As it is worn, its color tends to fade in a way that gives it character, making it popular with denim fans.
The other type is patterned denim fabric, including jacquard denim.
By changing the combination of warp and weft threads, a variety of patterns can be created through weaving.
Ms. Ono calls it “evolved denim.”
I used to teach at a fashion vocational school, but I first learned about patterned denim fabric after coming to Ibara. I was surprised to discover that this was denim too, and that this kind of fabric was made in Ibara. That’s what inspired me to want to make things here.
Ms. Ono’s trademark beret is also made from jacquard denim.
Try making a denim clutch bag
Onohanako Shoten offers three denim-making experiences using a sewing machine.
1. Denim tote bag: ¥4,400 (tax included)
Make an A4-sized tote bag in portrait orientation. You can also try setting rivets and eyelets as a finishing touch.
2. Denim clutch bag: ¥4,730 (tax included)
Make a folding clutch bag and decorate it with your choice of patterned tatami edging.
3. BOX tissue case: ¥3,850 (tax included)
You can also try attaching snap fasteners as a finishing touch.
All the items use selvedge denim made in Ibara.
Ono Hanako Shoten also offers a wide variety of denim-crafting experiences, including making photo frames and compact mirrors without using a sewing machine.
Time to give it a try!
I tried making a denim clutch bag using a sewing machine.
I’m the writer, Koban, and I was nervous because the last time I used a sewing machine was in a high school home economics class. But I’ll do my best to make a lovely clutch bag like the sample!
Here are the steps I followed to make the clutch bag.
- Prepare the materials (denim fabric and tatami edging)
- Practice using the sewing machine
- Sew the clutch bag with the sewing machine
- Finish
Prepare the materials (denim fabric and tatami edging)
The fabric used is selvedge denim made in Ibara.
This is a craft project using a special kind of denim.
The center of the clutch bag is decorated with tatami edging.
Tatami edging is a thick fabric attached to the edges of tatami mats to prevent the corners from wearing down.
Traditional tatami mats often use black or green edging, but it is also popular as a material for handmade goods, and comes in a wide range of designs.
I chose and cut a design from among more than 20 types of tatami edging made by Takata Orimono in Kurashiki City.
Choosing the tatami edging is important, as it determines the look of the clutch bag. I settled on this design.
I wonder how it will turn out.
Practicing with the sewing machine
After choosing and cutting the materials, it was finally time to sew!
As I nervously waited, Ono said, “Let’s start with some practice.”
That’s right—there’s a practice session, so beginners can feel at ease.
We used an industrial sewing machine. I was shown how to sit at the machine, operate the foot pedal, and position my hands.
After Ono showed me what to do, I also practiced sewing straight lines using a sample piece of fabric.
The sewing speed is controlled by pressing the pedal with your foot.
Ono is a professional instructor who has also taught at a fashion vocational school. I was able to master the technique perfectly.
“You’re doing great! I think you’re ready!” she encouraged me, and once I’d gained some confidence, it was finally time for the real thing.
Sewing the clutch bag with a sewing machine
First, I sewed the tatami edging that would decorate the clutch bag.
The tatami edging can be shaped into a bow, ruffles, and other designs.
I decided to try making a bow.
Ono helped with backstitching to prevent the thread from unraveling.
I managed to sew it in a straight line!
I joined the pieces, gathered them into a bow shape, and finished it. I can’t wait to attach it!
Next, to attach a magnetic snap to the denim fabric, I folded the top of the bag over by 3.5 centimeters and used an iron to press in the crease.
The heat released a soft, wafting scent of denim dye.
Ironing is also an important step that affects how well the finished product turns out.
Next, I attached the magnetic snap. Ono attached one half for me.
Using that as a guide, I tried it myself.
The denim was quite thick, so it wasn’t easy at first, but I managed to attach it.
Surprisingly, the back was reinforced with duct tape. Apparently, it’s a professional trick to make it sturdy and long-lasting.
Next, after temporarily pinning the bow to the clutch bag, I sewed it on using an overlock machine for overcasting.
Ono operated the overlock machine for me.
Once the overcasting was done, it suddenly looked like a finished product!
Next, I sewed a straight line along the part where the denim fabric pieces meet.
I placed a magnet to keep the fabric from shifting as I continued sewing in a straight line.
“Even if you make a few mistakes, they add character and charm!” Ono encouraged me, and I managed to sew all the way from one end to the other.
Next, I sewed the gusset at the bottom of the clutch bag to give it depth.
Finally, I sewed all the way around the edge of the bag, and it was complete.
Ono had been helping me up to that point, but I did the final backstitching on my own!
Finished
The texture of selvedge denim from Ibara and the traditional Japanese feel of the tatami edging go together perfectly.
I finished a one-of-a-kind clutch bag.
It turned out so beautifully, you’d never guess it was made by a sewing-machine beginner!
I enjoyed not only sewing with the machine, but also decorating the clutch bag with tatami edging to make it my own. I was especially particular about the color scheme.
The sturdy texture of selvedge denim from Ibara also seems like it would go well with all kinds of outfits.
I’m excited to think that using it will bring back memories of this experience.
From the Writer
I had heard of “Ibara denim,” but didn’t know much about it. I was surprised to learn that it has a longer history than domestically made jeans, and that patterned denim fabric is made only in Ibara.
Through the denim-processing experience using a sewing machine, you can see and touch the material and feel the appeal of Ibara denim for yourself.
Ono also provided attentive support, so I was able to enjoy the experience.
When I told her, “I was happy that I could do the backstitching on my own at the end,” she smiled and said, “Once people get used to it, I ask, ‘Would you like to give it a try?’ and let them experience the whole process. I think that way they feel more attached to it when it’s finished.”
I ended up with a clutch bag I can proudly show off, saying, “I made this myself using Ibara denim at a shop in Ibara.”
Why not try making a one-of-a-kind original bag while learning about Ibara denim?
- Photography: Toshiyuki Sasaki
Experience-Based Denim Shop Ono Hanako Shoten Information
| Name | Experience-Based Denim Shop Ono Hanako Shoten |
|---|---|
| Address | 1496 Ibara-cho, Ibara City, Okayama Prefecture |
| Contact | 070-1875-6978 |
| Parking | Available Nearby parking available (across from Yamanbo Honpo) |
| Hours | 10:00 a.m.–6:00 p.m. |
| Closed | Thursday Temporary closures may occur |
| Fees (tax included) | Denim-processing experience using a sewing machine ・Denim tote bag: ¥4,400 (tax included) ・Denim clutch bag: ¥4,730 (tax included) ・BOX tissue case: ¥3,850 (tax included) |
| Payment methods |
|
| Reservations | Reservations are required for the denim-processing experience using a sewing machine, at least two days before your preferred date. |
| Restroom | Western-style toilet |
| Website | Ono Hanako Shoten (H.Faire) |
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With ordinary denim, the weft threads are blown across by air or water as the fabric is woven, leaving the edges frayed. Selvedge denim is woven by moving a shuttle wound with white weft thread, which creates a finished edge.