Interview with Chef Sakai of pile
We spoke with Sakai Kaede, the chef of pile and a member of the food division of ITONAMI, about the background of the opening of pile and his thoughts on each menu item.
I wanted to focus more on local ingredients than ever before
Given that there were many fans of the café I previously operated, why did you decide to open a restaurant?
Sakai
I wanted customers to enjoy something that focuses more on local ingredients and to spend time more leisurely while looking at the sea, so I decided to open the restaurant in a different form.
I became an employee of ITONAMI about a year ago (around 2022).
Since I had been involved in food during my time at vocational school and my subsequent job, I was entrusted with the food division.
However, initially, I had no plans to turn the café into a restaurant, and I started by offering dinner.
The main dish served at dinner is lasagna.
It has been well received by customers, and I thought it would be a good fit for float, so I began considering whether we could offer lasagna for lunch as well.
The curry we served during the café operation was also popular, but I wanted to create a menu that could better utilize Setouchi ingredients.
I decided to change the café into a restaurant and adopt lasagna as the main dish.
It's rare to find a restaurant that serves lasagna as the main dish, isn't it?
Sakai
I think it's particularly rare in Okayama.
In fact, lasagna was also popular at my previous restaurant.
I had opportunities to make it during my time as a vocational student, and for some reason, I have continued to make lasagna...
When I was thinking about the main dish for dinner, I suggested that I want to make lasagna at float.
The ingredients used are those handled by producers the staff have met
Lasagna is one of your specialty dishes, isn't it?
Sakai
There is another reason I proposed lasagna.
I wanted to create a menu using the wheat from Ichimonji Udon.
Ichimonji Udon is a shop that grows its own wheat in Osafune-cho, Setouchi City, and also operates a udon shop.
At pile, we use a variety called Fukuhonoka from Ichimonji Udon.
My encounter with Ichimonji Udon was during a trip in a camper van that the two Denim Brothers, who are also representatives of ITONAMI, were taking in 2018.
In other words, we had been in contact even before float was established.
I had heard from Shimada that "I want to use Ichimonji Udon's wheat someday," so I thought it would be suitable for lasagna.
It's wonderful how menus are born from connections between people.
Sakai
Not just with Ichimonji Udon.
The beef used in the lasagna, Toyofuku beef, and the seasonal potage currently being served, which uses asparagus.
The ice cream used in desserts, KIKI NATURAL ICECREAM, and even natural wine.
Most of the ingredients used at pile are handled by producers and vendors that the Denim Brothers met during their trip in a camper van or have connections with the staff.
We are cooking ingredients grown by producers with whom we have met and who have a passion, and we are providing them while thinking about how to express them anew.
The concept is "Accumulation"
Can you tell us the reason behind the name "pile"?
Sakai
Pile means "accumulation" or "to stack" in English.
When I talk with producers and vendors, I feel that the time, thoughts, and techniques that have been accumulated here in Setouchi are passed down through generations.
By cooking the ingredients that have been passed down, we also accumulate time and thoughts.
I want to convey to customers about the producers and this land, and further accumulate thoughts.
With that in mind, I named it "pile".
Lasagna, too, is made up of layers, which is evident when you look at the cross-section.
Each layer can be associated with the geological layers of Ojigadake Hill right behind pile.
In many ways, I think "pile" is a name that reflects this land's restaurant.
When the faces of producers are visible, conversations with customers arise
Can you tell us something memorable about the opening of pile?
Sakai
The reactions from customers have been more numerous than when I was running the café.
I have received more opportunities to ask questions like, "What ingredients are you using?" and "How do you make it?"
When we renewed from a café to a restaurant, I honestly had some anxiety...
I am happy to receive good feedback.
In everyday life, it's not often that you know the producers.
In cases like Nagi beef, where the production method is determined by brand, multiple producers handle the ingredients and ship them together.
I think it must be fresh and full of discoveries for customers as well.
I personally enjoy being able to talk about the producers.
And when using ingredients whose producers are visible, it's fun to make them.
Were there any challenges during the opening?
Sakai
The most challenging thing to make was the side menu, pile chips.
Pile chips are made with wheat and water only.
At first, I struggled with whether to include eggs or not, and the combination of wheat and water and the thickness of the dough made a huge difference in how they puffed up, so I went through many trials.
In the end, I think I was able to create the ideal chips that are thin, light, and puff up just right.
By the way, the wheat used for pile chips is also the same Fukuhonoka from Ichimonji Udon used in the lasagna.
They are recommended as a snack for wine or to be eaten dipped in the lasagna sauce.
Above all, I think you can taste the original flavor of Fukuhonoka, so I hope you will try them.
I want customers to feel "I'm glad I had this time" during the day
How do you want customers to enjoy their time at pile?
Sakai
Customers take the time to come to pile.
They have to use buses or cars and climb the slope to the entrance of the store.
So, from the moment they sit down, I want them to slowly enjoy the view of the Seto Inland Sea and their meal.
I hope they can spend a moment at pile where they think, "I'm glad I had this time" during the day.
They can come for a casual lunch or stay at float; I think there are various ways to enjoy it.
And during their refreshing time, I would be happy if they could feel the thoughts of the producers who have been passed down through generations in Setouchi and the flavors of the ingredients.
Conclusion
Once you take your seat at pile, you will want to take a deep breath at the view overlooking the Seto Inland Sea.
As you gaze at the gentle ripples, in front of you is lasagna packed with the thoughts of various producers.
Eating lasagna with a knife and fork will provide an opportunity to spend time more leisurely.
If you are curious about what ingredients are being used, please feel free to ask the staff.
I believe that enjoying conversations unique to Setouchi through food is one of the charms of pile.
Data on Homemade Noodle Lasagna and Natural Wine "pile"
| Name | Homemade Noodle Lasagna and Natural Wine "pile" |
|---|---|
| Address | 1421-26 Kojima Karakoto-cho, Kurashiki City |
| Contact | 086-477-7620 |
| Parking | Available Free municipal parking for about 40 cars at the bottom of the hill |
| Business Hours | 11:30 AM – 9:00 PM (Last order at 8:30 PM) |
| Regular Holidays | Wednesday, Thursday DENIM HOSTEL float has no regular holidays |
| Payment Methods |
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| Reservations | Accepted Via Instagram DM or phone |
| Seating | Table seats: 12 |
| Smoking | Completely non-smoking (smoking area available outdoors) |
| Toilet | Western-style toilet |
| Website | pile｜パイル |
