Fukiya, located in the mountains of Takahashi City at an elevation of 550 meters, is a surprise: after passing through lush green mountain roads, a red townscape suddenly appears.
From the Edo period through the Meiji period, Fukiya prospered through its copper mines and the red pigment bengara.
The wealthy merchants who made their fortunes decorated their buildings with bengara. The townscape has been preserved just as it was back then.
Are you curious about the kind of pigment that brought prosperity to Fukiya?
At Fukiya Information Center Shimomachi Furatto, you can try bengara dyeing in a nostalgic space in a renovated traditional house.
What color will the pure white cloth turn?
I tried dyeing a stole with bengara while listening to Kuniko Ogura of Shimomachi Furatto talk about Fukiya.
The information presented here was current when this article was published in April 2021. Please note that it may differ from current information.
Fukiya, a townscape in bengara red
Fukiya’s red townscape
Reddish-brown Sekishu roof tiles, and latticework and walls dyed red with bengara.
Fukiya’s distinctive townscape, lined with unique buildings, was created by wealthy merchants who amassed enormous fortunes through bengara.
Fukiya’s bengara industry itself ended production in 1974, following the closure of the copper mine in 1972.
Although bengara is no longer made in Fukiya, the area was designated a National Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings in 1977, and Fukiya’s residents have worked to preserve its historic townscape.
In June 2019, it was designated a Japan Heritage site as “The Birthplace of ‘Japan Red’: Bitchu Fukiya, the Town of Bengara and Copper.”
Restaurants and souvenir shops line the red townscape, blending its rich history with a modern feel.
Fukiya Post Office also has a charming appearance that fits right into the town.
Fukiya has plenty of tourist attractions where you can learn about its former bengara industry.
| Attraction | Description |
|---|---|
| Former Katayama House | A long-established business that manufactured and sold bengara in Fukiya for over 200 years |
| Bengara Museum | A museum created by restoring the factory that was the last to manufacture bengara in Fukiya |
| Sasaune Mine Tunnel | The remains of a copper mine tunnel where iron sulfide ore, the raw material for bengara, was mined |
| Hirokane Residence | The residence of the Hirokane family, who became wealthy through copper mining and the production of roha (green vitriol), a raw material for bengara A filming location for movies including “The Village of Eight Gravestones” |
Shimomachi Furatto
Shimomachi Furatto is a tourist information center in a renovated traditional house at the southern end of Fukiya’s townscape.
The interior was apparently designed by Eiji Mitooka, who also designed the Kyushu Shinkansen.
The ceiling beams are magnificent.
Bengara-dyed handkerchiefs, masks, amulets, and other items were on display at the entrance.
There is also an exhibit of materials about Fukiya’s bengara industry.
A large noren (traditional shop curtain) depicts the lively scene from when bengara production was thriving.
As of 2021, bengara is no longer made in Fukiya, but at Shimomachi Furatto you can try dyeing with industrial bengara.
Why did Fukiya prosper through bengara?
Bengara is a powdered pigment whose main component is iron oxide obtained from soil.
It is said to have gotten its name because the method of making it was introduced from the Bengal region of India.
Today, bengara on the market is industrial bengara made through chemical synthesis.
In Fukiya, however, bengara was made from natural minerals until 1974.
Bengara does not occur naturally in soil in its finished form. It was made through a laborious process: producing a mineral called roha (green vitriol) from iron sulfide ore, its raw material; grinding it in a stone mill; removing the acid in water; and drying it.
In addition to the wealthy merchants, many workers must have been involved in production and lived in Fukiya.
What made Fukiya’s bengara special was the discovery, during the Edo period, of a mine producing high-quality iron sulfide ore.
Hachiya Hara, who had extensive knowledge of mining, was invited from Yamaguchi Prefecture to research the production of roha (green vitriol), and succeeded in developing it.
Fukiya prospered greatly after developing the technology to produce large quantities of high-quality bengara.
Fukiya’s high-quality bengara was used not for roof tiles or everyday goods, but for works of art, including ceramics such as Kutani ware and Imari ware.
This was because its vivid red color remained unchanged and did not turn black even when fired at high temperatures.
Although Fukiya bengara is no longer produced, many people in Fukiya are said to still keep some carefully.
“Authentic bengara is special. Even when used for dyeing, its color is completely different from industrial bengara,” says Ogura.
Color it your way: bengara dyeing at Shimomachi Furatto
Bengara dyeing experience options
At Shimomachi Furatto, you can try “stenciling,” using a stencil to dye fabric; “katazome,” dyeing the areas of fabric where paste has been applied; and “bengara dyeing,” dyeing by soaking fabric in bengara liquid.
Each takes about 30 minutes, and you can take your finished piece home the same day.
You can also make a reservation through Shimomachi Furatto’s Facebook or Jalan.
- Coaster: ¥880 (tax included)
- Handkerchief: ¥1,800 (tax included)
- Eco bag: ¥2,300 (tax included)
- T-shirt: ¥2,500 (tax included)
- Handkerchief: ¥1,800 (tax included)
- Tenugui: ¥2,300 (tax included)
- T-shirt: from ¥2,500 (tax included)
- Stole: from ¥3,000 (tax included)
You can also bring your own fabric for the bengara dyeing course. In that case, the price varies depending on the size and weight of the fabric.
If there is a piece of clothing you would like to dye, please inquire.
For this visit, I’ll be dyeing a pure white stole provided by Shimomachi Furatto. It is made of a soft, pleasant-to-the-touch material.
What color will it turn?
The bengara dyeing process involved the following steps:
- Choosing colors
- Preparing to add a pattern
- Dyeing with bengara liquid
- Sun-drying
- Finished
Choosing colors
First, decide what color you want to dye the fabric.
Pointing to the colorful fabrics lined up, Ogura said, “You can make any color or pattern here.”
Prepare to be amazed by the variety of colors!
Bengara is usually associated with red, but apparently, heating yellow bengara turns it red, while heating red bengara turns it black.
Ogura once heated yellow bengara in a frying pan, and it really did turn red. Isn’t that fascinating?
Shitamachi Furatto stocks yellow and black bengara in addition to red.
Apparently, mixing yellow and black bengara liquid makes green.
By combining colors, you can also create shades such as red, pink, black, yellow, green, orange, purple, and brown.
You can also adjust the intensity by diluting the dye.
To dilute the colors, Ogura uses her homemade gojiru (soybean slurry), made by mixing soybeans with spring water from Fukiya.
Apparently, the day after it rains, Ogura runs around the mountains to collect the spring water used for the gojiru.
“Fukiya’s water works well with bengara. It’s rich in minerals, and bengara loves it,” says Ogura.
I decided to try four colors: dark red, light red, dark green, and light green.
Ogura prepared the bengara liquid for me, asking, “Would you like it a little thinner?”
Preparing to create a pattern
After choosing the colors, it’s time to prepare the scarf for its pattern.
Tie sections of the scarf with rubber bands, and the areas covered by the bands will form the boundaries between colors.
It’s important to wrap the bands tightly so they don’t come off!
As I tied the scarf, I tried to decide whether to make large or small loops, but I couldn’t really picture how it would turn out, so I just tied it however I liked.
I decided to enjoy the random pattern.
On the other hand, apparently some people are particular about their designs and bring in a drawing of what they want, asking, “Can you make something like this?”
Whether you plan ahead to create a specific pattern or, like me, don’t have a clear image in mind, you can enjoy bengara dyeing, so there’s no need to worry.
I’d made lots of knots. I wondered what kind of pattern they would create.
At last, it was time to dye the scarf with bengara liquid.
Dyeing
Before dyeing with bengara liquid, first soak the scarf in a fixative. This helps the bengara color take to the fabric.
Wring it out thoroughly, then use a towel to remove the moisture.
Dip a brush into the bengara liquid and dab it onto the scarf to add color.
Repeat the process of dabbing on color with a brush, kneading it by hand, and removing the moisture.
If you want a deeper color, apply it to the same area several times.
This lets you adjust the intensity of the color.
The green bengara liquid, made by mixing yellow and black, separates easily, so mix it before dipping in the brush.
At first I was hesitant, but once I got used to it, I was able to dab on the color with confidence.
Using the rubber bands as guides, I made some areas sharply change to a single color and others with several colors applied randomly. I felt like an artist.
Once the dyeing is done, carefully remove the rubber bands so as not to damage the fabric.
Now, what kind of pattern will it have?
Air-drying in the sun
Hang it outside to dry, and it’s finished.
I’d been looking forward to seeing the pattern, and when I unfolded it, this is what I saw!
The tied sections had formed circles. The faint outlines of the rubber bands remained, creating a delicate effect.
The areas where I had dabbed the brush randomly had a mottled pattern. The result was unique.
Finished
On a sunny day, it dries in about 10 minutes, so you can take it home the same day.
Once you get home, it’s recommended that you hang it outside for about a week to 10 days.
“Bengara loves sunshine and wind. Hang it out and see how it’s doing,” says Ogura.
Bengara dye is said to be so resistant to fading that “the color lasts even after the fabric has rotted away.” Exposing it to the sun helps it last even longer.
I hadn’t been able to imagine what the finished piece would look like until I unfolded it at the end, so the moment I hung it out in the sun was truly moving.
I was also happy that Ogura shared my excitement, saying, “Lovely! The gradient looks great.”
I found it fascinating that bengara dyeing produces a truly unique result for each person, depending on their choice of colors and patterns.
It feels lovely around my neck, with a soft, flowing drape.
The original pattern adds a touch of flair to my outfits, so I plan to wear it often.
From the Writer
I really enjoyed focusing on a single piece of fabric and dyeing it while watching the bengara color take hold.
Talking with Ogura, who loves bengara, was also one of the highlights of the experience.
As Ogura said, “Everyone seems so busy, so when they come to Shitamachi Furatto, I want them to enjoy the feeling of taking things slowly,” time seems to pass at a leisurely pace in Fukiya, and I found it soothing.
Why not try making a one-of-a-kind piece with bengara dye while reflecting on Fukiya’s history?
- Photography: Toshiyuki Sasaki
Fukiya Information Center Shimomachi Furatto Information
| Name | Fukiya Information Center Shimomachi Furatto |
|---|---|
| Address | 890 Fukiya, Nariwa-cho, Takahashi City |
| Contact | 090-8999-0477 |
| Parking | Available Park at the nearby free parking lot, “Fukiya Furusato Village Parking Lot” |
| Hours | 10:30 a.m.–4:00 p.m. |
| Closed | Irregular holidays |
| Fee (tax included) | From 880 yen (tax included; varies by work) |
| Payment methods |
|
| Reservations | Available Reservations required by the day before for experiences |
| Restroom | Public restroom |
| Website | Fukiya Information Center Shimomachi Furatto | Facebook |
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