One of Okayama Prefecture’s best-known folk songs is Shimotsui-bushi, which has been sung for generations in Kojima and Shimotsui.
A national competition for Shimotsui-bushi is held every year, and I had simply assumed that it was a well-known folk song.
However, after speaking with people involved, I learned that Shimotsui-bushi is also facing the problem of a shortage of people to carry on its singing and dancing traditions. In the fall of 2024, a festival called “Shimotsui Yoiakari” was held to pass on this tradition.
Here’s a look at the day, which drew a large crowd.
The information presented here was accurate when this article was published in November 2024. Please note that it may differ from current information.
About Shimotsui Yoiakari
Shimotsui Yoiakari is a new festival held on Saturday, October 5, 2024.
People living in Shimotsui formed an executive committee and planned the festival to pass on the songs and dances of Shimotsui-bushi to the next generation.
Shimotsui-bushi has been passed down through song for around 150 years in Shimotsui, which prospered as a port of call for Kitamaebune trading ships. It was sung as a welcome song for the people who worked aboard the Kitamaebune, and is now one of Okayama Prefecture’s best-known folk songs.
At Shimotsui Yoiakari, volunteers performed a “processional dance,” followed by “Shimotsui-bushi for Everyone,” where anyone could join in. A highlight is that you can experience Shimotsui-bushi firsthand, rather than just watching.
The festival was held along the Shimotsui Townscape Preservation District street, where the atmosphere of old Japan remains, and at the Former Shimotsui Shipping Agent.
There were food stalls and places to rest, so visitors could enjoy the festival while taking their time over a meal.
The day of the festival
I arrived at the venue a little early and was lucky enough to catch a rehearsal. Dancers wearing straw hats formed a line and danced to Shimotsui-bushi.
Since this was the festival’s first year, I had no idea how crowded it would get, so I got my camera ready while there were still few spectators.
Shimotsui-bushi is a folk song characterized by its relaxed rhythm and flowing vocals, and the dance moves along at a gentle pace to match the song. The dancers were also given instructions during the rehearsal, and the scene conveyed their enthusiasm for the festival.
The sky was still bright, but I was already looking forward to seeing what the scenery would look like after sunset.
Fill up at tempting food stalls
Before Shimotsui Yoiakari began, I headed to the food stalls to grab a bite.
The stalls offered a wide variety of food, from classic festival fare like takoyaki and yakisoba to izakaya-style dishes that pair well with drinks and sweets like crepes.
After much deliberation, I bought yangnyeom chicken from “Story Hanul Gimbap.” It was great to enjoy it freshly fried outdoors.
I also bought a sour made with green lemons from “SugarFarm.” It was hot, so the refreshing citrus sour made the snacks even more enjoyable.
There were still plenty of stalls I wanted to try, but the lighting ceremony was about to begin, so I filled up for now and moved on.
The lighting ceremony and the first “Evening Dance”
At 5 p.m., the lighting ceremony was held in front of the Former Shimotsui Shipping Agent. Since this was the festival’s first year, media outlets were there to cover it, and many cameras were pointed at the scene.
Candles were placed inside the andon lanterns lined up along the road, and everyone lit them together at the signal. I was excited to imagine the magical atmosphere they would create at night.
As soon as the lighting ceremony ended, the first processional dance, the “Evening Dance,” began. To the sound of Shimotsui-bushi’s flowing vocals, a long line of dancers in yukata set off.
The Shimotsui-bushi dance apparently includes movements depicting things associated with Shimotsui, such as eagles and the waves of the Seto Inland Sea. The graceful movements of the dancers’ hands are captivating.
The dancers ranged across generations, from children to adults. Watched by a large crowd, they performed in perfect unison.
As the “Evening Dance” neared its end, the street through the Shimotsui Townscape Preservation District was packed with spectators watching the dancing. It felt as though people had gathered from far and wide, not just from the local area. The young children seemed fascinated by the dance they were seeing for the first time.
Joining “Shimotsui-bushi for Everyone”
After the procession dance ended, I joined “Shimotsui-bushi for Everyone,” held in the courtyard of Mukashi Shimotsui Shipping Agent House.
At “Shimotsui-bushi for Everyone,” anyone can join in spontaneously and experience dancing Shimotsui-bushi.
I didn’t know the choreography, but I stuck close behind someone who could dance it perfectly and tried to follow along by imitation.
It was difficult to dance with supple hand movements, and I ended up looking awkward, but it was fun to dance together—an experience I rarely get to have.
The ones leading the dancing were local grandmothers.
It seems that several decades ago, Shimotsui-bushi was sometimes danced at sports days in Shimotsui’s elementary schools, and I saw people reminiscing about those days. Not only did people dance, but some also sang Shimotsui-bushi, making me realize just how deeply this folk song is rooted in Shimotsui.
After the Shimotsui-bushi music stopped, one grandmother laughed and told me, “I usually walk with a cane, but when it’s time for Shimotsui-bushi, I can dance without one.”
I have no connection to Shimotsui, but seeing the locals enjoying Shimotsui-bushi made me sincerely hope that “Shimotsui-bushi will continue to be passed down without ever dying out.”
The “Evening Dance” and “Night Dance” after sunset
By the time the sun had completely set, the lanterns had created an even more dreamlike atmosphere.
Surrounded by the glow of the lanterns, the second procession dance, the “Evening Dance,” began.
With the hats, yukata, and old streetscape, the scene was full of charm. Every moment made for a beautiful photo.
The crowd grew even larger, and I found myself wondering, “Was it this lively even in the days when the Kitamaebune ships brought prosperity…?”
It was easy to get absorbed in the dancing, but the live singing of Shimotsui-bushi was also a must-see.
Shimotsui-bushi was sung in rotation, and, remarkably, a teenage girl also performed Shimotsui-bushi. Seeing a younger generation carry on the folk song moved me. The singing had a different character depending on the singer’s age, and I was overwhelmed by the power of the live performance.
Since I had the chance, I decided to watch the final “Night Dance” too. Before that, I picked up some food from a stall to tide me over.
The izakaya in Okayama City, Kuro no Tojo, served dashimaki tamago rolled omelet with simmered beef tendon and charcoal-grilled Daisen chicken that was so high-quality and satisfying, you wouldn’t think it came from a festival stall. It was easy to share, too, making it a welcome snack for anyone who enjoys a drink.
Tako meshi, a local specialty of Shimotsui, is a signature dish from Taketoyomaru, made by a local fishing family. The tako meshi had a slightly sweet flavor and seemed like something even children would enjoy.
Being able to eat local food may be one of the special pleasures of a festival.
Once we had eaten our fill, the final “Sayo Odori” dance began.
There were slightly fewer spectators than before, and I felt I could watch more leisurely than during the other two street dances. Perhaps it was just my imagination, but the dancers also seemed to have relaxed and grown more accustomed to dancing.
Shimotsui-bushi was sung to welcome visitors arriving aboard Kitamaebune ships. It was apparently often sung at drinking parties back then, but seeing the “townscape where you can hear Shimotsui-bushi” right before me now, I couldn’t help imagining that I was experiencing the atmosphere of Shimotsui as it was more than 100 years ago…
With many spectators watching until the end, Shimotsui Yoiakari came to a close.
From the Writer
Shimotsui Yoiakari was a festival that let me rediscover the appeal of Shimotsui-bushi.
The street dances each had a different atmosphere depending on the time of day, and I’m glad I got to see all three. “Shimotsui-bushi for Everyone” was not only a chance to experience Shimotsui-bushi, but also a great opportunity to exchange with local people.
I realized how familiar Shimotsui-bushi is to local people, but I was shocked to learn that this culture could be lost without festivals like Shimotsui Yoiakari. It’s sad that even a culture rooted in the community could disappear without opportunities like this.
It was a night that made me hope the number of people connected to the culture of Shimotsui-bushi will grow, even a little, through Shimotsui Yoiakari. I’m looking forward to next year’s event.
Shimotsui Yoiakari Information
| Name | Shimotsui Yoiakari |
|---|---|
| Date | Saturday, October 5, 2024 5:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. |
| Location | Shimotsui Townscape Preservation District Street and Former Shimotsui Shipping Agent |
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