The Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage Day Trips have been held by Iozan Kichijo-in Temple in Kojima for about 40 years. They began in 1984 and have continued in 1994, 2004, and 2014.
The fifth pilgrimage was originally scheduled to be held in 2024. However, it was held in fiscal 2022 for reasons including the following, which brought the Kojima pilgrimage sites into the spotlight.
- The film “Ishidan,” directed by Kuwata and released in 2021, was “nominated for the Best Director and Jury Prizes, awarded to just five films” at the 23rd Hamburg Japanese Film Festival. It was also featured by a Belgian film critic and selected as one of the “10 films from Asia you should definitely see.”
- The film “Charihen♪,” directed by Kuwata, was released in 2022.
- 2023 marked the 1,250th anniversary of Kobo Daishi’s birth.
I had also been hoping to make a pilgrimage to the Kojima pilgrimage sites someday, but the moment I saw the flyer, I wanted to go and decided to join.
Here is an introduction to the four-day Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage Day Trips.
The information presented was current when this article was published in April 2023. Please note that it may differ from current information.
What is the Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage Day Trip?
The Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage Day Trips were started about 40 years ago by Kichijo-in Temple’s honorary head priest, Motoyama Keijo.
Drawn in by the honorary head priest’s personality and explanations peppered with jokes, the pilgrimage attracted more than 170 participants at its peak (1994), and reportedly made the rounds using seven buses.
Over four days, pilgrims visit the Kojima pilgrimage sites scattered across the Kojima Peninsula, southeast of Kurashiki City.
One route follows the usual “jun-uchi (visiting the temples in numerical order)” order, visiting the temples in sequence from the first to the 88th. This time, however, the route is “random order,” making it possible to visit efficiently without worrying about the order of the temples.
For reference, here is the planned itinerary. In practice, the temples visited changed as each day’s schedule was adjusted.
| Day | Date | Itinerary (planned) | Reference |
|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | December 3, 2022 | 20 temples, starting at Kichijo-in Temple, Temple No. 36 | Below, red |
| Day 2 | January 29, 2023 | 22 temples, starting at Hieda Daishi Temple, Temple No. 23 | Below, yellow |
| Day 3 | February 4, 2023 | 23 temples, starting at Myooin Temple, Temple No. 88 | Below, green |
| Day 4 | February 26, 2023 | 23 temples, starting at Yugasan Rendai-ji Temple, Temple No. 64 | Below, blue |
On this pilgrimage, Kichijo-in Temple’s head priest, Motoyama Kaihan, was joined by Mr. Kuroki of Nakahara Sanpodo and Mr. Morimoto of Nomura Kotsu, who guided us.
A hybrid pilgrimage by bus and on foot
Modeled on the Shikoku pilgrimage route, the Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage covers one-tenth the distance. It starts at Chuzoin in Tamano City to the east, Temple No. 1, then circles the Kojima Peninsula clockwise, ending at Myooin Temple in Banden, Tamano City, Temple No. 88.
The total route is about 140 km, designed to be walkable in a week even for people with limited mobility.
Even so, walking the entire distance would be difficult, wouldn’t it?
That is why the Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage Day Trips are appealing: to make it easier for older people to participate, the buses get as close as possible to each temple, and pilgrims walk the remaining distance, making it possible to visit the Kojima pilgrimage sites efficiently.
It is what you might call a hybrid pilgrimage.
About 50 people took part this time. They made the pilgrimage in three buses.
A pilgrimage highlight: meals
The lunches were also lavish during the four-day pilgrimage, making them one of its highlights.
- Day 1: Washuzan Rest House
- Day 2: Lunch buffet at Setouchi Marine Hotel in Tamano City
- Day 3: Gonta Chaya Miyama Branch in Miyama Park, Tamano City
- Day 4: Yushoku Boya Kurashiki Branch in Horinan, Kurashiki City
As an example, here is the lunch at Yushoku Boya Kurashiki Branch on Day 4.
Perhaps because it was the final day, we enjoyed a lavish kaiseki meal that included sashimi, hot pot, and tempura.
A pilgrimage highlight: settai hospitality
“Settai” hospitality is one of the pleasures of a pilgrimage.
Here is one example from Day 2.
On Day 2 in particular, fellow participants offered settai, giving us hand-sewn offering pouches, a newly revised edition of the “Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage Guidebook” (the first revision in 13 years), and drinks.
Until now, drinks and rice crackers have been the usual forms of settai. Could this be one result of the excitement surrounding the release of Director Kuwata’s film? Settai itself is not something one should expect, but we were fortunate.
What are the pilgrimage rituals?
According to Kichijo-in Temple’s head priest Motoyama, “There are no particular set rules for pilgrimage rituals. There are various ways to hold and handle prayer beads, and even the number of incense sticks varies.”
He said, “I think it is best to follow the practices of the person teaching you.” This helped us feel at ease and make the pilgrimage without being overly concerned about strict rules.
Here are the main steps for worship that we learned on the Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage Day Trips.
A quick look at the pilgrimage
The Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage Day Trips involve visiting temples and hermitages, offering prayers according to the pilgrimage rituals, and repeating the process.
Since it would be difficult to introduce every temple and other site, here is a photo-focused overview of the four-day pilgrimage.
Day 1
▼The pilgrimage began at Kichijo-in Temple, Temple No. 36 (Shionasu, Kojima, Kurashiki City).
We were allowed into the main hall and, after hearing an explanation of the Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage Day Trips, the head priest explained the scenes filmed there as a location for the movie “Charihen♪.” It’s even more enjoyable if you’ve seen the film.
▼A scene from the pilgrimage at Hannya-in Temple, Temple No. 35 (Tsuko, Kojima, Kurashiki City).
We wore white robes and a wagesa stole. At each temple, we lit candles and incense, placed a pilgrim slip and an offering in the box, and chanted sutras.
▼On the way back from visiting Hannya-in Temple’s inner sanctuary (Tsuko, Kojima, Kurashiki City). The old, narrow path is too small for the buses to get close, so we made our way on the pilgrimage slowly, one step at a time to avoid injury.
Walking slowly also gave us time to take in the distant, tranquil waters of the Seto Inland Sea and its islands.
▼At Enpukuji Temple, Temple No. 34 (Shimotsui, Kurashiki City), the vivid autumn leaves in front of the main hall catch your eye.
▼At Anraku-in Temple, Temple No. 38 (Yobimatsu, Kurashiki City), we were welcomed by a sign from Mao-chan, Anraku-in’s mascot (written “Maho” but pronounced “Mao”). The thoughtful gesture of a sign saying “Welcome, Kichijo-in group” was already heartwarming, and we were also given bread and an unusual back scratcher inspired by the Thousand-Armed Kannon.
▼The final stop on Day 1 was Hannya-ji Temple, Temple No. 40 (Fukuda, Fukuda-cho, Kurashiki City), and by then it was completely dark.
On the Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage Day Trips, after visiting the final temple, it is customary to shake hands with at least five people as you part, promising to meet again on a later day.
I felt a little embarrassed about shaking hands, but soon laughter spread all around. It’s a lovely promise that can be made precisely because we had spent the day together as fellow pilgrims.
Day 2
▼At Hieda Daishiji Temple, the 23rd temple on Day 2 (Hieda-cho, Kojima, Kurashiki City), director Koichi Kuwata of the films “Ishidan” and “Charihen♪” came to join us. I have a personal connection with Director Kuwata, having had the opportunity to write an article about him. The head priest and Director Kuwata, explaining things in the morning sunlight, make a lovely sight.
▼A photo taken on the way to Jakko-an, the 68th temple (Tsuchigahara, Tamano City). We also walk along quiet country roads like this.
People over 80 also take part, and seeing their energetic strides that belie their age, I cannot help but feel the blessings of the pilgrimage.
▼The bell tower (on the right) at Kannon-in, the 17th temple (Hibi, Tamano City), is impressive, but I recommend the view from this bell tower. As it stands on high ground, you can see the townscape of Hibi spread out below.
▼At the entrance to Hongaku-in, the 79th temple (Minami Ward, Okayama City), the impressive temple gate serves as a landmark.
Day 3
▼The bell-tower gate at Ryujo-in, the 8th temple (Higashitaiji, Tamano City) on Day 3 has a distinctive design. Its concrete pillars are decorated with tiles. It evokes the Showa era for me.
▼In addition to the Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage, we also stopped at the famous Yotaro Shrine (Osaki, Hachihama-cho, Tamano City), dedicated to the deity of feet. It is said to be a popular shrine, with many people coming to worship from all over Japan. The daffodils, which we do not often get to see, were soothing too.
“Yotaro,” enshrined at the shrine, was a warrior named Ukita Motoie. He was killed in battle at the age of just 18 during the Battle of Hachihama, fought in the Hachihama area of Tamano City.
The following story has been passed down:
During the battle, he injured his leg and hid in a bamboo grove, but a local resident told his pursuers where he was hiding. He was found and killed.
It is said that Motoie regretted having injured his leg and vowed to help people with leg problems.
The shrine that stands today was originally a hall built by local residents to express their remorse for revealing his whereabouts.
▼The pilgrimage route to Daishido Hall, the 71st temple (Oyabu, Tamano City). We make our way along one of the steepest mountain paths on the Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage.
▼Shorin-ji Temple, the 83rd temple (Miyaura, Minami Ward, Okayama City), was originally on Takashima Island in Kojima Bay and was moved to its present location in the Meiji era. It now stands on high ground overlooking Kojima Bay, and visitors can enjoy the scenery.
Until recently, Shorin-ji Temple kept its principal image, the Thousand-Armed Kannon, hidden from public view. It is now on permanent display. This Thousand-Armed Kannon was originally the principal image of Yakuri-ji Temple in Sanuki and is a venerable statue said to have been made by Kobo Daishi.
As three temples were merged, three principal images are enshrined here. Be sure to view each of them.
At Shorin-ji Temple, we were also treated to ritual drumming and the Heart Sutra performed by the head priest.
I had never heard the Heart Sutra performed with such energy before. Be sure to watch this video. It is a new kind of Heart Sutra, like a live performance that makes you instinctively move to the rhythm (9:00).
Day 4
▼On Day 4, we visited Rendai-ji Temple, the 64th temple (Yuga, Kojima, Kurashiki City). The final day of the pilgrimage begins at the new main hall of Rendai-ji Temple, completed on October 4, 2022.
▼Jigen-in, the 50th temple (Obara, Kurashiki City). The stone steps in front of its temple gate were featured on the poster for Director Kuwata’s film “Ishidan.” The “stone steps” are a striking feature of the Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage. The view from this temple gate is also worth seeing.
▼Red wintersweet was blooming in front of Jigen-in’s main hall. The “88-temple day-trip pilgrimage” began in autumn, but we can already feel the change of seasons from winter to spring.
▼No. 51 temple, Jushinin (Kimi, Kurashiki City). What catches the eye here is the vivid blue walls of the Daishido Hall. It makes you wonder why they chose such a vivid shade of blue.
▼At No. 48 temple, Ittoji (Sohara, Kurashiki City), we found a rare vending machine for osamefuda (pilgrimage slips) beside the main hall. These osamefuda are for the Thirteen Buddhas Pilgrimage, which is separate from the Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage and has been established on the hill behind Ittoji.
▼No. 46 temple, Fujito-ji Temple (Fujito, Fujito-cho, Kurashiki City). Fujito-ji Temple, one of the historic sites of the Genpei Battle of Fujito, is also one of the temples on the Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage.
Sasaki Moritsuna is known for riding a horse across the Fujito Strait via a shallow crossing and defeating the Heike forces. The temple is also famous for its long history; it is said that a grand Buddhist service was held to pray for the souls of those who died in battle on both sides.
▼No. 42 temple, Junmoku-an (Kuroishi, Tsubue, Kurashiki City). White plum blossoms are blooming in front of Junmoku-an, and here too you can feel spring arriving.
▼No. 43 temple, Seimyo-in, and No. 44 temple, Senjin-an (both in Tsubue, Kurashiki City).
On the mountain in front of us, we can see Okayama Gakuin University and Okayama Junior College (Ariki, Kurashiki City). The residential area and rice fields stretching out before us were once the Fujito Strait, the setting for the Battle of Fujito. Doesn’t imagining that this was once a strait fill you with excitement?
▼No. 61 temple, Kyushoji (Yoshiyoshi, Tamano City). This is the place where the pilgrimage is completed on the Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple day-trip pilgrimage.
With the stories shared by our guide, head priest Motoyama, the four-day pilgrimage comes to an end.
From the Writer
The writer joined alone, hoping to complete the Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage, which had long been of interest.
Before taking part, I had some concerns, such as, “Will I have enough stamina for four days, from early morning until night?” and “Won’t it be lonely to participate alone?” But the pilgrimage was comfortable, and I was able to complete it safely.
Above all, the other participants were energetic and seemed to be enjoying themselves, smiling as they made the pilgrimage. The pleasant atmosphere made it possible to take part and enjoy myself even on my own.
The next event is planned for about 10 years from now, so it is still some time away.
People may have all kinds of reasons for joining: strong religious faith, an interest in the Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage, or a desire to improve their health.
The Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage is gaining momentum. Why not take part?
Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Day-Trip Pilgrimage Information
| Name | Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Day-Trip Pilgrimage |
|---|---|
| Dates | 2022–2023 schedule ・Session 1: Saturday, December 3, 2022 ・Session 2: Sunday, January 29, 2023 ・Session 3: Saturday, February 4, 2023 ・Session 4: Sunday, February 26, 2023 ※Each day, departure is between 6:00 and 6:30 a.m., and dismissal is between 6:00 and 6:30 p.m. |
| Location | Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage (around the Kojima Peninsula) |
| Participation fee (tax included) | ¥7,000 per session (includes lunch, insurance, and other expenses) ※Pay ¥28,000 (¥7,000 × 4 sessions) by the first session |
| Website | Iozan Kisshoin | Facebook page |
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【Worship at the main hall】
Each person places a pilgrim slip and an offering in the box. (The more experienced participants) light candles and incense.
【Chanting sutras】