Film “Ishidan” — Culture, history, and scenery we want to preserve through film for the people of Kojima 100 years from now

Film “Ishidan” — Culture, history, and scenery we want to preserve through film for the people of Kojima 100 years from now

The film “Ishidan” was made by Kuwata Koichi, who lives in Kojima, Kurashiki City.

After raising funds for the film through crowdfunding, and while working as a hairdresser amid the COVID-19 pandemic, he filmed the movie “Ishidan,” set at the Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage, in just 10 days.

The writer learned about the film “Ishidan” through its crowdfunding campaign and took part.

At the preview screening, the writer was moved not only by the film’s story, but also by the beautiful scenery of their hometown, Kojima, which they had noticed anew on the big screen. They thought, “I want more people to see this. I want to introduce it to them.”

The film “Ishidan” has received a great response, and has now reached audiences around the world.

In June 2022, it was screened in Hamburg, Germany.

This article introduces the “Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage,” the setting of the film, the beautiful Kojima scenery used as filming locations, and the film’s remarkable achievement at the Hamburg Japanese Film Festival.

The information in this article was current when it was published in September 2022. Please note that it may differ from current information.

The “Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage,” setting of the film

Entrance to Temple 29, with a Jizo statue

Have you heard of the “Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage,” the setting of the film “Ishidan”?

Even people who live in the Kojima area may not know much about it.

The writer also lived in the Kojima area until high school, but didn’t know about it.

They only happened to learn about it in 2018, when they came across a book titled “Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage: Goro Kosenn” at the Kojima Library.

This pilgrimage route visits temples, hermitages, and several other inner sanctuaries scattered mainly across the Kojima Peninsula, in Minami Ward, Okayama City, Tamano City, and the Kojima, Mizushima, and Kurashiki-Amaki areas of Kurashiki City.

When the Kojima pilgrimage was established, traveling the Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage took considerable time and money. In response to popular demand, smaller, nearby versions were created in various places to make the journey shorter.

In fact, Kurashiki City has another pilgrimage route, the “Kurashiki 88-Temple Pilgrimage,” around the Bikan Historical Area.

Walking the Kurashiki 88-Temple Pilgrimage: Discovering lesser-seen Kurashiki scenery while walking with the people who protect and pass on the pilgrimage (Vol. 1)

When was the Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage established, and by whom?

The Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage was established by High Priest Enmyo, the head priest of Kittouji Temple in Yanagida, Kojima.

According to one account, the Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage was established in 815.

It is said to have been most popular during the Bunka and Bunsei eras (1804–1830). Pilgrims start at the first temple in Tokushima Prefecture in the east, travel clockwise around Shikoku, and aim for the 88th temple in Kagawa Prefecture.

Modeled on the Shikoku pilgrimage, the Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage covers one-tenth the distance. It starts at Chuzoin Temple in Tamano City, the first temple, circles the Kojima Peninsula clockwise, and ends at Myooin Temple in Banden, Tamano City, the 88th temple.

It really is a mini pilgrimage.

Along the route are 55 temples, 33 hermitages, and several other inner sanctuaries. The total distance is 35 ri and 5 cho (about 140 kilometers), a route designed to be walkable in a week, even for those with weak legs.

Introducing High Priest Enmyo

High Priest Enmyo was born in 1784 into the Kamoi family in Sasaoki, Otaka Village. In 1796, at the age of 13, he shaved his head and became a monk at Ittoji Temple in Sobara, Gounai Village.

In 1807, at the age of 24, he became the head priest of Kittouji Temple in Yanagida, Oda Village.

Around this time, High Priest Enmyo and his fellow Shingon monks and friends, Shogyoku and Santo, pledged to undertake charitable works that would endure for future generations, and fulfilled their promises together.

EnmyoEstablished the Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage
ShogyokuBuilt a five-story pagoda at Bichu Kokubun-ji Temple
SantoInvited Konpira Shrine to the summit of Mt. Tanematsu and built a magnificent shrine building (now Konpira Daigongen)

From 1833 onward, High Priest Enmyo made repeated journeys around the temples in the Kojima Peninsula, accompanied by Sasaki, a junior official from Yanagida Village, and selected 88 sites for the Kojima pilgrimage, modeled on the Shikoku pilgrimage.

He devised a way to measure distances with a rope and make the route easy to follow. With the help of devout men and women, he built roads and bridges, erected signposts, and improved the route. The Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage was completed in 1839.

He recorded his joy at its completion on the monument to the Kojima Pilgrimage’s founding vow in front of Kittouji Temple. Shortly after completing the inscription for the monument, he passed away at Kittouji Temple in May 1845, aged 62.

A sacred site was established within Kittouji Temple and named Enmyodo Hall, where his virtue has long been honored.

▼Enmyodo Hall

Kittouji Temple, Enmyodo Hall

In recognition of this great undertaking, Enmyo was awarded the title of Hoin and later posthumously granted the rank of Sojo.

“Sojo” is the highest rank among the Buddhist clerical offices appointed by the Imperial Court.

▼High Priest Enmyo (from a hanging scroll held by Kittouji Temple)

Image courtesy of Director Kuwata’s crowdfunding campaign
Image courtesy of Director Kuwata’s crowdfunding campaign

The monument to the Kojima Pilgrimage’s founding vow

In front of Kittouji Temple’s main gate stand a stone monument inscribed “Kojima Pilgrimage Founding Vow” and a standing statue of Jizo.

It records the original vow behind High Priest Enmyo’s establishment of the Kojima pilgrimage.

Here, we share the thoughts of High Priest Enmyo, quoting a modern-language translation by local historian Toshifumi Otani.

Kittouji Temple, Kojima Pilgrimage Founding Vow

I have brought the precious sacred sites of the Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage to the temples of Kojima and established the Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage. I wish to make everyone aware of the blessings and grace of the Buddha that can be received by making this pilgrimage.
In particular, I hope to fulfill, even in part, the wishes of those who are too busy with their daily work to visit temples, those whose health is too frail to travel to distant sacred sites and spend many days on the journey, and those who have wanted to make a pilgrimage but have not yet done so. This would be in keeping with the Buddha’s heart.
It would bring me great joy if many people came from afar to visit the Kojima pilgrimage. But it must not become the work of fools who mislead the world and plunder people’s possessions. I have had these words carved in stone and left for future generations, solely to explain the purpose of the original vow behind establishing this pilgrimage.

Enmyo’s Record, Kichoshazan Kittouji Temple, from “Along the Flow of Oda,” translated by Toshifumi Otani

Introducing the film “Ishidan”

Film “Ishidan” poster
Film “Ishidan” poster

Despite this being Director Kuwata’s first crowdfunding campaign, 124 people supported it, contributing about 1.2 million yen—more than the target amount—and the project was successfully funded.

The film “Ishidan” is set at the “Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage.”

Reading Director Kuwata’s crowdfunding project description again, his heartfelt passion comes through clearly.

I want to revive Kojima, where the population continues to decline, and bring it back to life as a vibrant town!

Many people don’t know that Kojima has an 88-temple pilgrimage. I want the film to draw attention to the “Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage”!

I want to make a film that shows young people who will shape the future how cool it is to pursue their dreams without giving up!

Aiming to revive the “Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage” through the film “Ishidan”!

He also said, “For Kojima to be revived, young people’s energy is essential. Through the film, I want people to take pride in being Kojima residents and want to live in a town like this.”

The director’s feelings come through directly in this film.

Synopsis

Here is the synopsis from the “Ishidan” flyer.

Natsuki Kimura (18) is a high school student who dreams of becoming a singer.
Natsuki, the only daughter of a doctor, is not allowed to pursue her dream, and her mother, Midori (45), opposes it.
Trying to vent her frustration by hanging out with a delinquent group at school, Natsuki one day
meets Tsutomu Katayama (56), a middle-aged man making the Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage.
The two have little in common, but by chance they end up making the Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage together.
However, Katayama has terminal lung cancer and has been told he has only a short time to live.

When Natsuki learns this…

Will the two be able to complete the Kojima 88-Temple Pilgrimage?
And what will become of Natsuki’s dream?

Scenery worth seeing and preserving for 100 years

What especially captivated the writer in the film “Ishidan” was the beautiful scenery of their hometown, Kojima, and the people who live there.

Here, the writer introduces some scenery they would like to preserve, alongside a few stills from the film.

The Seto-Ohashi Bridge in the opening

▼This was the first scene at the preview screening that brought tears to the writer’s eyes.

Image courtesy of Director Kuwata (from the film “Ishidan”)
Image courtesy of Director Kuwata (from the film “Ishidan”)

The Seto-Ohashi Bridge opened in 1988, the year the writer started high school.

The Seto-Ohashi Expo was held in front of Kojima Station. The writer vividly remembers the excitement as many people visited Kojima, and believes they dreamed of a bright future.

The Seto-Ohashi Bridge, a symbol of the bright future the writer dreamed of in their youth, appears alongside the film’s striking title lettering, “Ishidan,” and the theme song “To an Unseen Tomorrow” by RIMULU. The film begins.

The Seto Inland Sea is a source of pride for the world. Its calm waters and beautiful islands blend perfectly with the Seto-Ohashi Bridge, an artificial structure of unparalleled presence.

The ginkgo tree in Tsuyu

▼The inner sanctuary of Hannyain Temple in Tsuyu. The magnificent yellow carpet (fallen ginkgo leaves) is captivating.

Image courtesy of Director Kuwata (from the film “Ishidan”)
Image courtesy of Director Kuwata (from the film “Ishidan”)

This photo alone conveys its beauty, but be sure to watch the “Ishidan” promotional video, too.

The scenery is so beautiful it leaves you speechless. The video is 2 minutes and 43 seconds long.

There is an afterstory to this.

▼Sadly, the large ginkgo tree was cut down in 2021. The scene introduced here can no longer be seen.

The inner sanctuary today 

Apparently, the reason is unknown.

Even the stump shows what a magnificent tree it was.

I was saddened when I learned this. I wish I could have seen it with my own eyes.

But don’t you think it means something that footage of it was preserved before it was cut down?

The film “Ishidan” preserves footage of scenery we want to leave behind 100 years from now.

Now, all we can do is hope that this ginkgo will recover, even if it takes 100 years, and that “our grandchildren’s generation will once again be able to see a yellow carpet.”

End credits

Please be sure to watch the end credits all the way through, too.

Director Kuwata filmed the many beautiful landscapes, living creatures, and people connected with the sacred sites of Kojima himself. He filmed everything only on Mondays, his day off as a hairdresser.

Against a backdrop of the man-made Seto-Ohashi Bridge and Mizushima Industrial Complex, the footage shows temples and shrines that have been protected unchanged, as well as the tranquil islands of the Seto Inland Sea. It is footage we want to leave behind 100 years from now (about four minutes) that people around the world should see at least once.

And then, to the world

Of the 285 films entered in the Hamburg International Film Festival, “Ishidan” was selected as one of 81 films and screened in Hamburg.
Furthermore, it was honored with nominations for the Audience Award and Jury Award, which were given to only five of the 81 films.

It was later featured by a Belgian film critic and selected as one of the 10 films from Asia that people should definitely see. Even now, the film “Ishidan,” which screened in 2021, continues to reach audiences around the world.

▼This is the film festival poster that arrived from Hamburg for Director Kuwata on the afternoon I interviewed him.

Hamburg International Film Festival poster
“Image courtesy of Director Kuwata (from Facebook)”

The materials sent also included a brochure for the Hamburg International Film Festival.

I can’t read English, but even I can tell that “Ishidan” was nominated as one of five films for this prestigious honor.

Image courtesy of Director Kuwata (from Facebook)
Image courtesy of Director Kuwata (from Facebook)

From the Writer

I hope that watching the film “Ishidan” will give people a chance to discover places such as the “Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage” and “the beautiful scenery of Kojima close to home.”

Through the film “Ishidan,” I was genuinely happy and proud that parts of the scenery we take for granted in our everyday lives—such as temples and shrines and the Seto Inland Sea—were appreciated and honored far away in Hamburg, Germany. It made me love my hometown even more.

I’m also looking forward to the day in the near future when people from Germany and young people from Kojima make the pilgrimage together to the Kojima Eighty-Eight Temple Pilgrimage.

Kojima film director Koichi Kuwata ~ The momentum of the film “Ishidan” carries on into his next film, “Charihen♪”

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Citizen writer who wrote this article
Manabe Tadayoshi
Manabe Tadayoshi

In his late 40s, he lives in Kurashiki City and works for a company. He has two daughters.
After entering university, he lived in Matsuyama City, Ehime Prefecture; Toyonaka City, Osaka Prefecture; Fuchu City, Tokyo; and Nisshin City, Aichi Prefecture, among other places, before returning to his hometown.
He hopes to introduce the unique charms of this place that he was able to notice after living away from his hometown.
A graduate of the 2020 Takahashi River Shijuku (first cohort) and the 2021 Takahashi River Basin Writers' School.
He hopes to continue learning and introduce things mainly through his own experiences.

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