The “Kurashiki 88-Temple Pilgrimage” is said to have been established in the mid-Edo period, and is located in central Kurashiki, around the Bikan Historical Area, Tsurugatayama, and Mukoyama.
In Vol. 1, we mainly introduced pilgrimage etiquette and scenery around the Bikan Historical Area and Tsurugatayama. Continuing with Vol. 2, we will focus on scenery from around Mukoyama to the area in front of JR Kurashiki Station.
The Kurashiki 88-Temple Pilgrimage is part of the scenery we usually see without giving it much thought.
By learning about its meaning and history, and the feelings of those who hope to pass it on to the next generation, rediscover the Kurashiki scenery that has been protected and passed down.
The information presented is current as of when this article was published in July 2022. Please note that it may differ from current information.
What is the Kurashiki 88-Temple Pilgrimage? From the “Kurashiki 88-Temple Pilgrimage Guide”
You may not immediately know what the “Kurashiki 88-Temple Pilgrimage” is when you hear the name.
For information about pilgrimage etiquette and scenery around the Bikan Historical Area and Tsurugatayama, see the Vol. 1 article.
In Vol. 2, we take a different perspective and introduce the Kurashiki 88-Temple Pilgrimage by quoting the “Greetings” from the “Kurashiki 88-Temple Pilgrimage” guide.
Let’s check the pilgrimage route
▼This is the map in the “Kurashiki 88-Temple Pilgrimage” pamphlet.
In Vol. 1, we walked around Tsurugatayama and introduced Area A, as shown on the map.
In Vol. 2, we will introduce the route walked in the morning through Area B (around Mukoyama) and Area C, and in the afternoon through Areas D and E and the area in front of JR Kurashiki Station.
Let’s visit Unpenji Temple (north side of Mukoyama) to Kanjizaiji Temple (south side of Mukoyama) (Areas B–C)
▼Pilgrimage site 66, Unpenji Temple, and site 85, Yakuriji Temple.
Near the intersection south along the road on the east side of Kurashiki Ivy Square.
Because the two pilgrimage sites are combined in one location, the shrine is large and enshrines four figures in total: two Kobo Daishi statues and two principal images.
▼Let’s go up the narrow road on Mukoyama from here.
▼A little farther up. Looking back, you can see Kurashiki Ivy Square and central Kurashiki spread out before you.
Doesn’t the scenery you usually see without thinking about it look different from this slightly changed viewpoint?
▼Pilgrimage site 87, Nagaoji Temple. It may look a little tilted, but it stands on a sturdy natural-stone foundation.
▼A scenic viewpoint.
You can see all of Kurashiki Ivy Square, and a little farther away, Achi Terrace Kurashiki.
▼An information board atop Mukoyama.
The second item from the bottom clearly reads “Kurashiki 88-Temple Pilgrimage (Mukoyama).”
▼The inner sanctuary of pilgrimage site 88.
It is right beside the road leading up to Mukoyama Park, so you may have seen it before.
▼We took a break at Mukoyama Park after climbing the slope. We had been walking slowly, but were now out of breath and sweating.
We enjoyed some sweets that Mr. Kato, a leader of the Kurashiki 88-Temple Pilgrimage, had brought for us, and were refreshed.
As the writer, I’m captivated by the flexible pose of Chushun from Kanryuji Temple in this photo.
▼From the park, we slowly descend along a wide, well-maintained mountain path.
▼This is Dainichiji Temple, pilgrimage site 4. It is distinguished by the large natural stone resting on top of the site.
Apparently, no one knows when or how it was placed there.
▼This is Kinsenji Temple, pilgrimage site 3.
One of the views I love.
Apart from the sacred sites, there is nothing but a dirt path and a small hut. It makes you wonder, “Did people walk through this original landscape when the pilgrimage route was first established?”
▼No. 11 Fujii-dera Temple and No. 2 Gokurakuji Temple.
Several sacred sites are gathered and enshrined amid the bamboo grove and quiet. They are difficult to reach unless the paths are maintained, but this is a group of sacred sites I hope you will visit at least once.
As for why so many were gathered here, I was told, “They may have been brought together here when the road up Mukaiyama was built around the beginning of the Showa era.”
▼The sacred sites of No. 2 Gokurakuji Temple, the inner sanctuary of No. 17 Idoji Temple, and No. 1 Ryozenji Temple stand in a row.
▼No. 15 Kokubunji Temple.
This mountain path also gets me excited, wondering, “Could this be a path that has remained since the pilgrimage route was first established?”
▼This is No. 21 Tairyuji Temple. On the day I walked with everyone, I was captivated by the daffodils blooming on either side of the sacred site.
▼Take the mountain path beside No. 21 sacred site. It takes some courage to go in alone.
The Mukaiyama route also has entrances that are hard to spot like this. So I recommend joining the pilgrimage in March and November each year.
▼A true mountain path.
Here, notice the felled trees and bamboo on the left. Even maintaining a mountain that people can enter is hard work.
▼The scenery changes, and the path enters a broadleaf forest.
A slightly dark forest like this has little undergrowth, making it easy to walk through.
However, because sunlight does not reach the ground and undergrowth cannot grow, rain and other factors cause erosion of the ground surface, and the mountain is said to be prone to degradation.
The dry fallen leaves and such made the path a little slippery, so I walked slowly, taking each step carefully.
▼No. 33 Sekkeiji Temple.
I think this is near the summit of Mukaiyama.
In particular, No. 26 Saiji Temple and No. 25 Tsuji Temple are very close to each other, so take care. Check the map in the pamphlet and follow the correct route.
Perhaps as a test, the pilgrimage route takes a slight detour.
▼This is No. 36 Seiryuji Temple. It is firmly set atop a large natural rock.
▼As we emerged from the forest and the view opened up, Ashitaka Mountain, where Kurashiki City Office and Ashitaka Shrine stand, came into view.
Kurashiki City Office is 66.88 meters tall. Ashitaka Mountain is 67.00 meters above sea level.
Ashitaka Shrine has a history of more than 1,000 years; it is recorded in old records (Engishiki) as one of the shrines in Bitchu, among other things.
For this reason, the designer of the city office is said to have taken care with its height out of respect for the shrine.
▼This is No. 41 Inariji Temple (Ryukoji Temple).
Jinyuan can be seen behind it on the left. Several sacred sites are also scattered around this cemetery.
▼This is No. 40 Kanjizai-ji Temple.
It is located in the parking lot of Jinyuan, below the cemetery. Murata, the head priest of Kanryuji Temple, joined us here. We offer prayers together.
▼After joining us, Head Priest Murata offered us boxed lunches and tea.
The bamboo shoot rice and simmered dishes soothe my tired body.
Introducing the people who protect and pass on the sacred sites
Let’s take a short break here. As introduced in Vol. 1, I’d like to introduce some of the people who protect and pass on the sacred sites whom I wasn’t able to cover.
Uchida, who walked with us (woman)
At No. 86 Shidoji Temple, Ms. Uchida was replacing the cord that ties up the curtain of the shrine. It gives a glimpse of how the sacred sites are protected through daily acts of service.
Sadako Nakata
At Dainichiji Temple, Pilgrimage Site No. 4.
Please take a look at this brand-new embroidery. You might not notice it unless someone points it out, but Nakata reportedly embroidered each one by machine over a period of about five years after she turned 90.
Sadly, Nakata passed away about four or five years ago, but the beautiful white embroidery on purple fabric still watches over the pilgrimage sites.
Mr. Matsumoto and Mr. Miyake
At Yokomineji Temple, Pilgrimage Site No. 60.
▼Part of the roof is missing, but you can see that it has been neatly repaired with concrete.
This is one of the sites repaired mainly by Mr. Matsumoto, Mr. Miyake, and their companions.
The block walls introduced at other pilgrimage sites are another example. Their devotion to the sacred pilgrimage route is being passed on to the next generation in a visible form.
Mr. Kato and Mr. Uchida, who walked with us (male)
We went back to check the condition of the mountain path beside Pilgrimage Site No. 21.
Mr. Kato and Mr. Uchida (male), who walked with us, and their companions take the lead in maintaining this overgrown path, clearing fallen leaves in March and cutting grass in August.
We photographed the same spot, but the trees and weeds had grown, making it difficult to walk through.
This is one example that shows how the route is protected through ongoing maintenance.
A postscript.
Kato reportedly scored an “88” in golf soon after this pilgrimage. Don’t you feel that he had Kobo Daishi’s blessing?
In fact, this pilgrimage route may also be beneficial for people who play golf.
Bizen-yaki Nagayama
Bizen-yaki Nagayama is in the Bikan Historical Area, which was also introduced in Vol. 1.
As the pilgrimage’s administrative office, it distributes route guides and pamphlets every day.
The author later returned to collect some materials as well. Without these materials, it would be impossible to walk the route.
Let’s visit Taizanji Temple (around Kurashiki City Office) to Kanryuji Temple (finish) (Districts D and E, and around JR Kurashiki Station)
Now, let’s resume the pilgrimage from Taizanji Temple and head for the finish at Kanryuji Temple.
▼Pilgrimage Site No. 52, Taizanji Temple.
We walked from north to south through the mountains of Mukoyama and came down into town here. To be honest, it was a moment of relief.
▼Our relief was short-lived. The route heads north along the western side of Mukoyama, repeatedly going into the mountains and back down.
There are mountain paths where you have to cross dry streambeds like this. By this point, rather than feeling “excited,” I was feeling “tired” and increasingly anxious, wondering, “Will I make it to the finish safely…?”
▼Pilgrimage Site No. 46, Joruriji Temple.
▼Pilgrimage Site No. 50, Hantaji Temple.
This pilgrimage site was originally placed on the rock visible in the back, but was moved to the front. Even moving it must have been extremely hard work.
▼We came down again and headed north along the road west of Mukoyama.
▼After heading a little farther north, we climb another slope.
▼Three pilgrimage sites are gathered here: Pilgrimage Site No. 54, Enmeiji Temple; No. 55, Daitsuchisho-butsu; and No. 56, Taizanji Temple.
According to the reference materials, “They were below the former crematorium and were probably gathered here when the road was improved.”
Also, when visiting these pilgrimage sites, be aware that depending on the route, you may have to cross private property.
▼We cross the road leading to Furumachi Tunnel and climb the slope again.
▼Pilgrimage Site No. 10, Kirihataji Temple. Pilgrimage Site No. 57, Hachimandera Temple, is also visible one level above.
▼ We have come north as far as the torii gate beside Ikume Hachimangu Shrine.
Here, No. 47 Yasaka-ji Temple and No. 62 Hoju-ji Temple stand side by side.
▼ No. 59 Kokubunji Temple.
▼ We have come quite a way back. Kurashiki Ivy Square and Kanryuji Temple are visible nearby. However, don't assume the finish is just ahead. From here, the pilgrimage route takes a detour west for a while.
▼ No. 63 Kichijoji Temple.
We are seeing more pilgrimage sites in alleyways, rather than along the mountain paths we have been following.
▼ The pilgrimage path a little way down from No. 63.
The writer likes how the view suddenly opens up along narrow alleyways like this.
▼ No. 65 Sankakuji Temple.
There are just a few more narrow alleyways like this to go.
▼ After passing through the narrow alleyways, you come out onto the road south of Kurashiki Ivy Square.
▼ Cross Takasago Bridge in the Bikan Historical Area. The pilgrim's attire fits right in with the scenery here.
▼ After crossing Takasago Bridge, go straight into the narrow alley. There is actually a pilgrimage site in this narrow alley too.
Since it is one of the pilgrimage sites in the Bikan Historical Area, why not stop by and pay your respects?
▼ No. 67 Komatsuoji Temple. This pilgrimage site has grounds large enough to be seen in the photo. It is located a little east of Wakatake no Sono.
▼ Walk west along the south side of Ohara Museum of Art (Annex). The walls of this museum are striking, resembling castle walls.
▼ Continue west through town.
▼ No. 70 Motoyamaji Temple. Near the drugstore in Inari-cho. Its distinctive feature is the stylish block wall surrounding the pilgrimage site.
▼ No. 49 Jodoji Temple.
The surroundings are urban. A distinctive feature of this pilgrimage site is that it is housed inside a sturdy building.
▼ Slowly head south along the banks of Kurashiki River (irrigation canal), which carries life-giving water from Takahashi River to the Kurashiki area. Walk toward Achi Terrace Kurashiki.
▼Kokubunji, the newly built 80th temple, is beside Achi Terrace Kurashiki. This temple was originally enshrined at Shinmachi Daishido, but was relocated for various reasons.
▼The principal image and statue of Kobo Daishi enshrined at the 80th temple.
Take a look at the statue of Kobo Daishi here. Its face has been burned completely black.
The reason is explained in “The History of the Kurashiki No. 80 Sacred Site,” posted at this temple. Here is an excerpt:
This temple was built during the Edo period, more than 200 years ago, as the 80th of the 88 sacred sites around Kurashiki Village. It was named Shinmachi Daishido after the town name at the time. In 1966, a fire in the neighborhood spread to the temple, and the wooden statue of Kobo Daishi was badly burned. However, it is revered by people as a substitute Daishi. It was relocated here as part of a redevelopment project in the Reiwa era.
Just reading this explanation gives a sense of how the local community has cared for this place for a long time.
▼We have returned to Kanryuji Temple (west side). Honestly, I’m simply exhausted.
At the same time, I feel a sense of accomplishment and fulfillment from being able to walk together with everyone. I’m just filled with gratitude.
▼At the Daishido of Kanryuji Temple. We offer prayers of thanks and gratitude for being able to complete the pilgrimage safely.
▼Finally, we received an ossetai (offering) from Kanryuji Temple. The bag on the left contains an offering from Ms. Senda, introduced in Vol. 1.
▼We opened the offering from Ms. Senda. It was a delightful assortment, with each piece of candy and snack bringing joy.
From the Writer
In Vol. 1, we mainly compiled information, while in Vol. 2, we focused primarily on the scenery, introducing the “Kurashiki 88 Sacred Sites Pilgrimage” over two installments.
One of the reasons I wanted to write this article was the “people who protect and pass on the sacred sites” mentioned in the title of Vol. 1.
Thanks to the dedication of many people, the long-standing Kurashiki 88 Sacred Sites Pilgrimage has been wonderfully revived.
Before the COVID-19 pandemic, pilgrimages were held twice a year.
Apparently, as many as 100 people gathered at times.
I hope people will notice the new discoveries to be made in familiar scenery, and the people who protect and pass on the sacred sites.
There are two points to keep in mind.
First, don’t underestimate the mountains around Kurashiki; you could get lost.
Second, the Kurashiki 88 Sacred Sites Pilgrimage takes you through areas where local residents go about their daily lives.
Please enjoy the pilgrimage while remembering that you are being welcomed as pilgrims, and observing proper conduct and manners.
Scenery we see every day without a second thought.
This article may prompt you to notice red banners bearing the words “Kurashiki 88 Sacred Sites” or stone shrines beside the roads you walk every day.
If you do notice one, why not stop for a moment and peek inside?
I think you’ll discover that the distinctive statues of Kobo Daishi and principal images are watching over you warmly.
Kurashiki 88 Sacred Sites Pilgrimage Information
| Name | Kurashiki 88 Sacred Sites Pilgrimage |
|---|---|
| Dates | Every year, March and November; gather at 8:30 a.m. and depart |
| Location | Kanryuji Temple, advisor to the Kurashiki 88 Sacred Sites Association |
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Ideally, one would naturally make the pilgrimage in order, from number one to number two, and from number two to number three. However, in Kurashiki, many stone halls have been relocated due to road widening and other reasons, so they are not currently arranged in numerical order.
For this reason, our Kurashiki Pilgrimage Association begins the pilgrimage at site number 74 at the former Yuba, said to be the birthplace of Kurashiki. We describe the route in detail, so even first-time visitors should be able to make the circuit on their own.
First, read the route directions marked with a circle. Next is the name of the temple you have reached. Some of the names of the Kurashiki 88 sites differ from those of the Shikoku pilgrimage sites.
Next, we have listed the names of the principal images and their mantras.
1. Kobashi Yakio, “Kurashiki 88-Temple Pilgrimage,” self-published
2. Inoue Kenichi, “Kurashiki 88 Pilgrimage Sites,” Takahashi River, No. 41, 1982
3. Edited by Taniguchi Shigeko, “Guide to the Kurashiki 88-Temple Pilgrimage,” self-published
References cited above
Now, let us begin.