Interview with Manager Hiroto Murakami and Chef Kiyoto Kataoka
Located in the center of the tourist area, Bikan Historical Area, is "Tsurugata Restaurant."
We spoke with Manager Hiroto Murakami and Chef Kiyoto Kataoka about the building, which has a history of about 280 years.
The interview is based on the content from the initial coverage conducted in July 2022.
About the Building of Tsurugata
Can you tell us about the history of the building?
Murakami (honorific omitted)
It was built in 1744 during the Edo period. It is a building that is about 280 years old and is currently the second oldest in Kurashiki.
The oldest building is the Inoue House located just behind Tsurugata (on Honmachi Street).
Tsurugata was originally an oil wholesaler.
It became an inn in 1970, and it celebrated its 50th anniversary in March of the year before last (2020).
Is there any trace of its history as an oil wholesaler in the building?
Murakami
If there is any trace, it would be more as a merchant house.
This building is built in the two-story storehouse style.
A storehouse refers to a storage area, and it means that it is located on the second floor.
Since it is a storehouse, it has no ceiling, and the large beams are exposed.
The windows are small and are designed in the Kurashiki style, serving the purpose of air circulation and light entry.
To transport goods to the second floor, it seems there used to be a staircase at the entrance on the first floor.
The padlock that was used to attach the staircase remains, but we have never seen the staircase.
There are three steps at the entrance from the street to the restaurant.
There are another three steps when entering the guest room, which has been renovated from a storehouse.
Therefore, it seems that they must have stored quite valuable items in the storehouse.
In the past, there were two Takahashi Rivers, the East Takahashi River and the West Takahashi River.
There is a river flowing near Tsurugata, and it seems there were frequent floods at that time.
Ohara Museum of Art has seven steps at its entrance, right? The Midori Goten also has steps.
Midori Goten is another name for Yurin-so Villa. Yurin-so Villa is the former villa of the Ohara family built by Ohara Magosaburo.
People in the past must have had a high awareness of water.
It seems they placed important items deeper and higher up.
About Tsurugata's Cuisine
Can you tell us about the famous sea bream chazuke?
Murakami
The sauce for the sea bream chazuke is based on soy sauce, mirin, and sesame.
The sauce is left to sit for two days to blend.
Actually, I only know this much about the sauce.
Just recently, when I was calculating the calories to inform our business partners, I received a negative response.
The recipe for the sauce is a closely guarded secret.
The recipe for the sauce is known only to a few chefs, and it seems to be passed down through the head chefs.
Has Mr. Kataoka recently taken over as head chef, and is he continuing this tradition?
Kataoka (no honorifics)
Yes, I am continuing it.
I am also particular about the sukiyaki sauce, and this recipe is also a closely guarded secret.
Murakami
Sukiyaki, the smell of it is quite tormenting, isn't it? It has such a wonderful aroma that it makes me hungry. It's tough for the staff.
Popular with Foreign Guests
Although it is a tourist spot, do many tourists come to dine here?
Murakami
About 95 percent of our customers are tourists. It seems there are few local customers.
Before the pandemic, we had many foreign tourists visiting us.
There were overwhelmingly more Europeans, while there were fewer from Asia.
Especially during the Setouchi Triennale season, we see many French visitors who are interested in art and fine arts.
The Setouchi Triennale is held once every four years. It is scheduled for 2022.
Foreign guests also enjoy ochazuke (rice with green tea). They seem to be interested in chopsticks.
We also serve meals to guests staying with us, and there are foreign customers who change into kimonos specifically for dining.
Some tall guests even bend their long legs to eat in a tatami room.
It seems that Tsuru-gata's meals have become a topic of conversation outside of the dining area as well.
Murakami
In January 2018, we provided in-flight meals for JAL's domestic flights. I supervised the entire menu.
In 2000, we provided lunch when His Majesty the Emperor visited Ibara. It was prepared at Tsuru-gata and transported to Ibara.
Additionally, in 2017, the 75th Shogi Meijin Tournament was held here at Tsuru-gata. It was a match between Meijin Sato and Hachidan Inaba. We provided lunch for them.
What Tsuru-gata Aims For
Please tell us about your future prospects.
Murakami
We have a goal, and the general manager has said, "Make it a dignified inn."
To put it simply, "We aim to be a beautiful inn."
Our idea of "beautiful" is not only about cleanliness but also about the way we prepare food and use tableware, as well as our manners towards customers.
We aim for "beauty" in everything.
Is there a collaboration with your group’s Kurashiki International Hotel?
Murakami
Our group has a strong point in that we offer both Western cuisine at Kiyutei Restaurant at Kurashiki International Hotel and Japanese cuisine at Tsuru-gata.
For example, when it comes to banquet meals, guests may prefer a mix of Western and Japanese dishes rather than just Western cuisine from start to finish.
Therefore, we also prepare Japanese dishes at Tsuru-gata and transport them to Kurashiki International Hotel.
For accommodations, there are plans where guests can stay at Kurashiki International Hotel and enjoy dinner at Tsuru-gata if they prefer Japanese cuisine.
Conversely, there are also cases where guests staying at Tsuru-gata with breakfast included are directed to have dinner at Kurashiki International Hotel or Kiyutei.
In the future, we hope to further collaborate so that those who prefer Japanese cuisine for breakfast over the Western buffet at Kurashiki International Hotel will come to Tsuru-gata.
We hope to make this a reality in the future.
Conclusion
The second oldest building in Kurashiki, "Tsurugata Restaurant." Dining in this special space where you can feel the history of Kurashiki is exceptional, isn't it?
You must be curious about the secret sauce, known only to a select few chefs, used in the dishes.
How about taking a stroll in the Bikan Historical Area and going to eat Tsurugata's cuisine?
Tsurugata Restaurant Data
| Name | Tsurugata Restaurant |
|---|---|
| Address | 1-3-15 Chuo-cho, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture |
| Contact | 086-424-1635 |
| Parking | None |
| Business Hours | 11:00 AM - 2:00 PM |
| Regular Holiday | Monday |
| Payment Methods |
|
| Reservation | Available |
| Seats | 29 seats (Counter: 5, 4-person tables: 4, Long table: 1) |
| Smoking | Completely non-smoking |
| Toilet | Western-style toilet |
| Website | Ryokan Tsurugata |
