Interview with Sanae Sakamoto about her passion for Sanada-himo
We spoke with Sanae Sakamoto, executive director of Sakamoto Orimono Co., Ltd., about her passion for Sanada-himo.
What led you to start weaving Sanada-himo?
Sakamoto (surname only)
“The biggest reason was that I thought, ‘If it ends here, Sanada-himo will truly disappear.’”
In my father's generation, we wove narrow-width textiles such as seat belts and craft cords. But as time went on, more textile products were made overseas, and our company was in a difficult situation at the time. Having seen my father struggling up close, I came to feel strongly that I wanted to “make something that can only be made in Kojima.”
Later, I encountered Sanada-himo for the first time in Kyoto, and its beauty left me stunned. At the time, I didn't know that Sanada-himo was a specialty of Kojima, and I was surprised to learn about its history in Kojima later through local history books. But Sanada-himo, which is also the starting point of the region's history, was already on the verge of disappearing.
Just when I was thinking that I wanted to weave Sanada-himo, I learned that my mentor, Koichi Ishihara, had been a Sanada-himo artisan.
I inherited the weaving techniques and power loom from Mr. Ishihara, and Sakamoto Orimono was able to start weaving Sanada-himo.
If you hadn't taken over, Sanada-himo might no longer exist in Kojima.
Sakamoto
I think things were down to the wire. It took about six months from inheriting the power loom to being able to weave Sanada-himo for sale. The power loom itself is old, so it was quite difficult to learn how to operate it while monitoring its condition.
I was also worried about whether it could be viable as a business, and I don't think I could have continued without a strong desire to really do it.
I believe that Sanada-himo itself, as well as its weaving techniques, power looms, and historical background, are all part of the heritage preserved by the region, so I want to do my best to ensure it doesn't disappear.
What is the difference between the kumihimo you often see and Sanada-himo?
Sakamoto
The biggest difference is the manufacturing method.
Kumihimo is made by braiding diagonally, while Sanada-himo is a woven textile, made by weaving the warp and weft at right angles. So kumihimo is stretchy, while Sanada-himo is durable and doesn't stretch at all.
What do you think makes Sanada-himo appealing?
Sakamoto
A lot of things come to mind, but the most important is that Sanada-himo continues to be tied to Kurashiki's history. Sanada-himo was one of the reasons Kojima became a textile town, so I think it's an indispensable textile product for this town. Whenever you look back at the region's history, Sanada-himo is always there.
Another appealing feature is the irregularity that comes from using old-fashioned power looms. I think it could be woven very neatly using the latest machines, but this irregularity creates a sense of variation that gives Sanada-himo its distinctive character.
Some time ago, a shop near the Louvre Museum in France sold Sanada-himo on consignment. An overseas customer who bought it said, “I can feel the Japanese spirit of harmony just from this cord.” I was very happy that they felt that way even across national borders. It was an experience that made me strongly realize that this is something that truly can only be made in Japan.
Since it's such a narrow textile, I imagine it must be difficult to express things by combining colors and patterns. How do you approach that?
Sakamoto
The scenery in Kyoto, where I used to live, was so beautiful that I came to want to express the beauty I felt with all five senses. I'm very particular about color combinations and things like that.
We also have designs that express people's feelings.
For example, a jewelry company asked us to “express the way bonds connect people,” so we used the railroad-track pattern, a traditional Sanada-himo design. The railroad-track pattern looks like a chain, so I thought it would express bonds.
It's fun to be able to express all kinds of things within the limitations of an extremely narrow cord, such as memorable experiences, unforgettable beautiful scenery, and people's feelings.
What challenges have you faced in carrying on Sanada-himo?
Sakamoto
Sakamoto Orimono's Sanada-himo is colorful, and we weave cute designs that are popular with young women, but that was actually quite a challenge. Until then, Sanada-himo had mainly come in subdued colors...
To carry on Sanada-himo, we need to combine it with business, but I was worried about changing traditional Sanada-himo. However, customers sometimes asked, “Is this all the colors you have?” so we took the plunge and tried weaving it in colors like red and pink.
At the time, I thought, “Maybe someone will get angry,” but I believed that making it accessible to more people would ultimately allow us to continue preserving the culture of Sanada-himo.
It would be meaningless if it ended with my generation, so we need to think about how to pass on the traditional techniques while also developing products that can generate profits for the company.
It may seem difficult, but I enjoy thinking about it. I love Sanada-himo.
The power looms used at Sakamoto Orimono must be valuable, but maintaining and managing them must also be difficult.
Sakamoto
That's right. Apparently, power looms that are still in operation are rare, and employees of Toyota Industries Corporation have even come to see ours.
In Karakoto, Kojima, there is still just one artisan who maintains power looms. I hear he used to manufacture power looms, and when I call him about a problem with one, he immediately gives me advice over the phone, such as, “Try pulling that pawl there.”
But that artisan is also elderly, and he told me, “I don't know how much longer I can do this work, so if there's a machine that needs repairing, please let me know soon.” I realize that there is a shortage of successors not only for Sanada-himo, but also for the artisans who maintain power looms.
What are the distinctive features of Sakamoto Orimono's Sanada-himo?
Sakamoto
Our greatest strength is that we can make custom Sanada-himo in small batches.
This is possible because of Sakamoto Orimono's power loom, which we've modified so that it can weave lengths as short as one meter.
When I took over Sanada-himo production, I thought that, as a woman myself, the value of being able to “make Sanada-himo in a pattern of your own” might appeal to women. Of course, mass-producing the same pattern is more efficient, but I thought that weaving a wide variety of patterns in small batches would allow us to deliver Sanada-himo to more people.
Thankfully, these days we receive orders not only from companies, but also from artists and designers.
What are your plans for the future?
Sakamoto
I want to actively promote Sanada-himo to people outside the prefecture and overseas.
In the future, I hope to create Sanada-himo items that people overseas can use. People are pleased with our existing items, but I feel we still have a little more work to do.
To bring Sanada-himo to more people, I want to keep working hard, together with my son, who will succeed me.
From the Writer
Hearing Ms. Sakamoto's passionate thoughts during the interview made me realize that the makers themselves are their products' biggest fans. After the interview, I felt that I had come to love Sanada-himo even more.
I think Sakamoto Orimono is able to take on the challenge of creating new items while valuing tradition precisely because Sanada-himo comes first for them.
To preserve traditional products, they must also be commercially viable so that their makers can continue their work for a long time. I think the conflicts that arise in the process can be overcome precisely because they love what they do.
To continue supporting the Sanada-himo made by Sakamoto Orimono, I hope to pick some up whenever I come across it.
Articles about Kurashiki City's Japan Heritage
Sakamoto Orimono Co., Ltd. Information
| Organization Name | Sakamoto Orimono Co., Ltd. |
|---|---|
| Industry | Manufacture and sale of textile products, including Sanada-himo cord and narrow-width woven fabrics |
| Representative | Sakamoto Koji |
| Year Established | 1970 |
| Address | 3-8-37 Kojima, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture |
| Contact | 086-477-6340 |
| Website | Sakamoto Orimono Co., Ltd. |
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