Features and highlights of Tamashima’s townscape
We spoke with Fujiwara Noriyoshi, section chief at the Kurashiki City Japan Heritage Promotion Office, about the appeal and highlights of Tamashima’s townscape.
The townscape of Tamashima spreading out around Haguro Shrine
First, could you tell us about the features of Tamashima’s townscape?
Fujiwara (surname only)
In Tamashima’s old port town, the three districts where many old buildings can be seen are Shinmachi, Nakagaicho, and Yaidecho.
They are located in a radial pattern around Haguro Shrine.
The historic buildings remaining in Tamashima’s townscape are characterized by merchant houses and storehouses with hon-gawara tile roofs, featuring mushikomado windows, latticework, and namako walls.
These features are found in the homes of people who amassed wealth.
They show how Tamashima prospered through commerce and produced many wealthy merchants.
Historic buildings are still used as homes or operate as businesses.
Be sure to stroll around the town and experience the atmosphere of this port town, once known as “Naniwa of the West.”
Haguro Shrine, the guardian shrine of all Tamashima
What is your recommended spot in Tamashima, Mr. Fujiwara?
Fujiwara
My recommendation is Haguro Shrine.
Haguroyama, where Haguro Shrine stands, is almost at the center of Tamashima’s urban area.
When land reclamation began in the early Edo period, the Mizutani clan, lords of the Bitchu-Matsuyama Domain, enshrined a divided spirit of Dewa Shrine in Haguroyama, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture, in the former Dewa Province (present-day Yamagata and Akita prefectures), praying for the success of the reclamation project and the safety of the reclaimed land.
Look closely at the shrine’s decorations and you’ll find many intricate and unique details.
Names of people from far away, as well as from around Tamashima, can also be seen on the tamagaki fence.
This shows that the area prospered through trade with Kitamaebune ships and produced many wealthy merchants.
Furthermore, because Haguroyama, where Haguro Shrine stands, was once an island, it was called Amidajima.
There is also a theory that it was called “Tamashima.”
In other words, the site of Haguro Shrine may be where the place name Tamashima originated.
Haguro Shrine is a guardian deity of the reclaimed land and is said to be the origin of the name Tamashima, so be sure to visit and pray there as you explore.
Around Shinmachi, the wholesale district that once formed the heart of Tamashima port town
I’d like to learn about the area around Shinmachi.
Fujiwara
Shinmachi is a district centered on a road that runs straight west from the western foot of Haguro Shrine.
This road is called Shinmachi Street.
Looking down from the west side of Haguro Shrine’s grounds, you can see Shinmachi Street and the townscape of Shinmachi spreading out below.
It’s a quintessential Tamashima view, so be sure to take a look.
Walking along Shinmachi Street, you’ll find a building that was once Wakaya, a grain wholesaler and the birthplace of Yasuhara Tamaki, a poet who was active from the end of the Edo period through the early Meiji period.
Another highlight is Okuniya, a cotton wholesaler that was the birthplace of Kawata Oko, a Confucian scholar active from the end of the Edo period through the early Meiji period.
The former Saigokuya shipping wholesaler still has its impressive storehouse alongside the residence.
The storehouse is also used as a hub for cultural activities such as concerts.
Other sites include the former cotton wholesaler Nishiwataya, the site of a shipping wholesaler, the site of a rice shop, and Mukai Miyake Residence, a separate home belonging to a rice merchant.
Look for the information boards, signs, and stone pillars installed around the area.
All of them retain the atmosphere of the Edo through Meiji periods.
Around Nakagai-cho, home to many businesses and shops still operating today
What kind of town is Nakagai-cho?
Fujiwara
Follow Shinmachi-dori to its western end, then cross the bridge to reach Nakagai-cho.
Nakagai-cho is said to have originated as a town where brokers set up shop.
By the mid-Edo period, as many as 593 merchants are said to have moved to Nakagai-cho.
Buildings that evoke the atmosphere of the Edo, Meiji, and Taisho periods still remain, alongside many shops and businesses that are still operating today.
Also preserved are signboard-style buildings, popular in the Taisho period, and Western-style buildings.
One example is the former Tamashima Credit Union building.
Built in the early Showa period, this Western-style building has a modern feel.
Just north of it is Tamashima Miso and Soy Sauce Company.
This building once served as the Agasaki Village Office during the Meiji period.
A little farther north is Kikuchi Sake Brewing Co.,Ltd., a long-established sake brewery.
Kikuchi Sake Brewing Co.,Ltd. is known for its Sanzen brand. Why not pick some up as a souvenir?
Kikuchi Sake Brewing Co.,Ltd. is also the birthplace of Kondo Banjo, a kokugaku scholar and poet who was active at the end of the Edo period.
Other highlights include the paper wholesaler Shirakami Paper Shop, the site of the shipping wholesaler Ideya, a place visited by the haiku poet Taneda Santoka, the former school of Yokomizo Kakuri, a Confucian scholar of the late Edo period, and the former Bizen Domain residence, Echigoya.
I also hope you’ll visit Entsu-ji Temple, located atop the mountain south of Nakagai-cho.
Entsu-ji Temple is known as a place where the renowned monk Ryokan trained.
Entsu-ji Temple also offers a sweeping view of Tamashima.
Around Yaide-cho, home to Saisotei, a Registered Tangible Cultural Property
What kind of place is Yaide-cho?
Fujiwara
Yaide-cho is across the river from the north side of Haguro Shrine, across Minato Bridge.
It is said that there was a port here even before the land was reclaimed.
After Shinmachi was established, the center of the port town gradually shifted there.
The biggest highlight of Yaide-cho is Saiso-tei.
This was the residence of the Yunoki family, wealthy merchants and shipping agents during the Edo period.
The Yunoki family served the lord of the Bitchu-Matsuyama Domain, who stayed at their home when visiting the Tamashima area.
Saiso-tei was where the domain lord stayed.
As a result, it is distinguished by its luxurious construction, including carefully crafted decorative details. It also has a splendid garden.
During the upheaval at the end of the Edo period, Bitchu-Matsuyama domain samurai Kumata Ataka prevented Tamashima from being caught up in the fighting by taking his own life.
Kumata took his own life at Saiso-tei, where traces of blood splattered during his seppuku remain.
Saiso-tei is also a Registered Tangible Cultural Property.
Be sure to visit.
Another highlight of Yaide-cho is its popular restaurants and shops.
There is a long-established shop selling meobiyaki (imagawayaki), a shop where you can enjoy authentic gelato, a ramen shop known for its converted storehouse, and a long-established stationery and dagashi shop.
Why not stop by while exploring the area?
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